The premise for Marni's A/W 14 presentation was a 'total' wardrobe - a set of pieces that would furnish a man for whatever the day could throw at him. Marni succeed. This was a triumph of a collection, filled with covetable, versatile pieces that felt true to the intelligent, soulful Marni ethos but also nodded obviously to the new ways in which men are dressing. So alongside menswear staples - a great trench coat, a perfect tailored suit, a crombie coat - came sweatpants that had been knitted and parkas that were layered and fitted with extended bits of fabric, creating the sense of man piling on various winter warmers. The real success was in the textures and, naturally, the furs. The goat used on trousers and shorts was a particular talking point.
The signature wit we expect from Marni came through in the smaller details, such as the thick, cartoon rubber soles on derbies and the great detachable fur collars. That emerald one was the perfect shade given the envy and lust it elicited from viewing editors.