Usually the Marni shopper uses her wardrobe to express her quirks and show off her personality, but this season she was retreating behind her clothing and cladding herself in armour. As a complex, smart woman, she always has an air of aloofness and distance, but those heavy zips, weighty volumes and dense masculine fabrics like brushed mohair, tweed and men's suiting wool, made her feel even more distant and lofty.