The Marni woman is feeling less optimistic than usual for Autumn/Winter 2013. It's a time of austerity in Italy at the moment and she's reflecting that in her dress. There was something almost funereal about those heavy coats and that excessive use of fur (even if it is Marni's heritage). Usually the Marni shopper uses her wardrobe to express her quirks and show off her personality, but this season she was retreating behind her clothing and cladding herself in armour. As a complex, smart woman, she always has an air of aloofness and distance, but those heavy zips, weighty volumes and dense masculine fabrics like brushed mohair, tweed and men's suiting wool, made her feel even more distant and lofty. She was buckling up and preparing herself for a fight.
The need for protection was mirrored in the atmospheric prints. Branches, forests and landscapes suggested new plains to be encountered and new journeys to brave. The moody palette of charcoal, inky navy, black and oxblood added to the sullen vibe.
The complexity to the collection came in artfully added lighter notes. Particularly striking were the transparent slices concealed inside the folds of pleated skirts - a subtle touch that added sensuality during movement. Similiarly the glittering crystal clutches held tight to the body like precious shields added an understated opulence and whimsy.
Consuelo Castiglioni has proved that there is a beauty in toughness and a lightness in the dark.