Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are moving to Paris next season and for the New Yorkers at yesterday’s Proenza Schouler show on the West Side, the mood was tinged with mourning. They’re a brand close to the city’s heart and they told us their A/W 17 collection is about strength. After all, this city needs it right now. And McCollough and Hernandez sought to express that with urgency.
The opening look was aggressive—a black coat, oversized, with gold grommets lining the side, and red and black elongated zippers reading 'Proenza.' This is the Proenza woman today: she is tough, because she has to be. The offerings that followed stayed on point. A black, asymmetrically cut leather number, reading more Berlin club vibe than sleek sex symbol. Tailored grey coats paired with loose, zipper-detailed trousers. Asymmetrically cut dresses in cherry red, fit with cut-outs at the waist. A pleated skirt – night sky black with a white swath across the front. Leather and shearling coating - layered with mud red shearling and shining leather. A sheer top, with a winding electric blue curve covering the breasts and a pair of boyish, militant leather pants to match.
This was a cool, cold collection. It felt authentic to the New York woman that we’re finding now, again, after some time dominated by an atmosphere of relative comfort and privilege. The icy, artful Proenza woman is here in force. And we’ll follow her to Paris.