After a lauded menswear debut last season, Richard Nicoll's second showcase was eagerly anticipated. At first glance, the designer had built carefully on Spring/Summer's clean, crisp agenda. Shapes were slim and neat, just like last time, and knits were comparably luxurious and fresh. As expected, there were the eye-catching visuals with that paint splash print. And there were the favourite jumpsuits - a kooky twist on a classic workwear staple. A clear standout piece was the voluminious navy coat, cut with an extra deep vent at the back for maximum movement.
While Nicoll's understated dandyisms were as present as ever, this season's collection missed the bite of Spring/Summer. The stated inspirations of 'post-punk', 'no-wave rebellion’ and ‘brutalist architecture’ - while fashion clichés - promised us a riotous showing. What we got instead was a collection that was sound on the surface, but lacked genuine momentum - surely a blip for the ever energetic and playful Nicoll.