Rick Owens took Paris by storm last season with his dark sinister vision for menswear. While his debut in the capital was seen as invigorating, his fiercely dark aesthetic was hard to swallow by some. What Owens excels at is his ability to construct a dynamic and forward thinking narrative that although somewhat aggressive is still recognisable and approachable. Over the thumping track of 'One and only dominator' Owens sent out a sensitive and less angst collection than his winter show. Skinheaded or flowing locked models stormed the cavernous runway and reiterated the gothic vision that Owens has made his own. For summer Owens' devout fans will, as always, be dressed in black. Sharply cut jackets were presented with long shorts and knee high socks. Cyber trainers offered a change from the prescriptive heavy boots that defines an Owens collection. Wispy white tails flowed from angular waist coats and Edwardian style coats came in black nylon. Dark blue denim was sliced and patchworked into triangular jackets and were exceptionally tailored confirming Owens' exquisite ability in construction. The long t-shirt has become a staple of Owens' wardrobe and this season they came in white and were worn tight over shorts. Apron panels were styled over trousers and again pushed Owens' fascination with layering - but how feasible this is for summer is a fair question and the jury is still out. The lean silhouette that defines the language of Owens' clothes is strictly urban and his warrior uniforms are specifically relevant to a street savvy London audience. His presence in Paris adds a harder edge to the show schedule and propels his aspirational aesthetic to a global audience. Owens seals another accomplished show.
Over the thumping track of 'One and only dominator' Owens sent out a sensitive and less angst collection than his winter show.