Roksanda Ilincic is a designer who has made a name for herself through her glamorous, red-carpet worthy gowns. And this season, Ilincic showed a collection that was again typical of her elegant luxe aesthetic. Dresses made up the majority of the collection and many had an asymmetric twist to them such as a single sleeve, one shoulder or uneven hemline. Cape dresses were shown off to their full advantage as they billowed out behind models walking down the catwalk. Satin or silk were the fabrics favoured by Ilincic and it was mostly gently ruched, gathered and folded to create simple and svelte silhouettes.
However, embellishment that was added to beautifully tailored shift dresses did little to enhance either the piece they adorned or the collection as a whole. Sequins picked out a trellis design on torsos, while flat sequin discs formed flowers suggesting an English country garden theme. What looked like copper baubles covered another shift, but the overall look was lacking, and the pieces could have held their own without these details.
Although it is frocks with which Roksanda is associated, it was the overgarments covering dresses that were the most memorable pieces of the collection. Belted woollen jackets and coats with contrast sleeves (a trend that has cropped up again and again this season) in fur were favourites. The palette was also in-keeping with other designers' collections - deep rust, olive green and mink tones are all colours we can expect to be wearing next season.
But what was Ilincic's show all about? Despite running themes between looks, it seemed as if each piece had been designed alone without thought for the collection as whole. As a result, there was a feeling that there was a lot going on, but little to really get your teeth into.