Greg French reports on the Roksanda Ilincic show
Ilincic made a departure from her signature audacious colour by selecting a muted palette, with scatterings of mint green and vermillion orange. Smokey brown eyes and washed out skin gave the showing a sinister undertone as ethereal, ghostly models took on Ilincic's own dance of the dead.
If the crowds were anything to go by, Roksanda Ilincic has undoubtedly secured a position amongst London's fashion elite. Even mentor Louise Wilson from Central Saint Martins was present at The Savoy's glittering Lancaster Ballroom.
Ilincic made a departure from her signature audacious colour by selecting a muted palette, with scatterings of mint green and vermillion orange. Smokey brown eyes and washed out skin gave the showing a sinister undertone as ethereal, ghostly models took on Ilincic's own dance of the dead, drifting down the wooden runway. Shin length dresses, with tessellated detailing, echoed the panelled walls of the ballroom, while Tim Burton-esque heels with pointed toes and optical metallic stripes added further punch to this corpse-bride tale.
The excitement of this collection came in the change of mood. Silks, shimmering tulles and intricate crystal embellishments morphed effortlessly alongside the soundtrack from dainty to dramatic. Similarly, PVC, neoprene collars and square tulle headpieces signalled the arrival of something matronly and uniform-like, a far cry from last season's cheery, bold femme fatalles.
Given that her childrenswear is a booming success and her brand is safely secured amongst London's top sellers, it's no surprise that the Serbian designer fancied a real creative breather. Ilincic returned to her love of dark drama - something that characterised her earliest student work - with a sense of confidence and ease, producing a collection that was both spooky and sensual - who knew such a mix could work?
