Greg French reports on the Simone Rocha show
Inspired by both Rocha's Irish and Chinese grandmothers, the designs told a biographic story of admiration and respect. Growing up in the Rocha family, 'provided an opportunity to develop an understanding of cut and refined detail', explained the show notes.
With her father, designer John Rocha, sat proudly on front row and her mother dressed top to toe in SR designs backstage, Simone Rocha's latest collection, entitled 'Respect your Elders', certainly lived up to its name.
The soundtrack - selected by brother Max Rocha - may have proclaimed this a 'Walking Disaster', but the subtlety of colour and strength of technique and fabrication ensured that the Rocha girl was anything but. Inspired by both Rocha's Irish and Chinese grandmothers, the designs told a biographic story of admiration and respect. Growing up in the Rocha family, 'provided an opportunity to develop an understanding of cut and refined detail', explained the show notes. Even the aptly chosen refreshments echoed a Grandma-ish quality, with cheese and ham toasties and pots of blueberries and strawberries providing a home comfort for the 9am audience.
The developing codes of the Rocha brand were apparent. Lace made a re-appearance from previous seasons, however this time rehashed into classic, high neck-lined cocktail dresses with fur trimmed collars. Disrupted hip line peplums and awkwardly placed asymmetric bullets ruched and displaced volumes of fabric and hand crochet detailing. A colour palette of Pepto Bismol and powder pink was shown alongside hatchling yellows, black-tinseled tweeds and glittering creams. Leopard print fur jumpers were contrasted against opaque tulle skirts, all styled with matted ponytails, nicknamed backstage, 'the beaver'. The effect, a sickly sweet nod to the lady-like clothing of Rocha's grandmothers, which somehow felt strong, confident and contemporary. Rocha's cool girls will have plenty to furnish their wardrobes with.
Additionally, the young talent's growing business acumen will ensure the long term success of this showing. Covetable accessories were peppered throughout the show, from shimmering pink loafers to jaunty black velvet glasses and patent bags. While the SR girl may have grown up - or at least be playing dress up - for Autumn/Winter 2013, she retained that unique mix of confidence, naivety and tenacity that has made Simone Rocha such a unique talent.