For Spring/Summer 2012, Olivier Theyskens showcased his extraordinary talent with a collection for contemporary American sportswear brand, Theory, that catered to every possible whim. From casual weekend looks and workplace wear, to disco dresses through to floor-sweeping gowns, the young designer with a renowned couture-like sensibility took his collection to every conceivable occasion.
Theyskens’ eclectic Spring collection was focused more on separates and their countless combinations, with a particular focus on unexpected proportions, than on stand-alone pieces. In one ensemble, a sassy black crochet mini-dress was paired ingeniously with a masculine olive green floor-length duster coat, other’s included a cropped black leather motorbike jacket and shrunken Chanel-like tweedy cardigan paired with a knee-length dress and men’s style suit pants. Loose-fit blazers were matched with structured shorts, and drop-crotch blue boyfriend jeans sat at ease with a grungy spring knit cardigan.
Much of the collection featured a purposely lived-in feel, a grungy aesthetic Theyskens put down to being a, 'kid of the nineties.' And true to that spirit, there was a lot of lazy-chic daywear throughout teamed with tomboy boots – which is sure to please the mainstream Theory consumer, but it was the fun disco numbers and breathtaking evening-wear that really stood out. Cute dresses with gently undulating bias hems in striking metallic fabrics, and out-there trousers cut seemingly from iridescent cellophane, were hard to miss – the showstoppers though, as expected, were the final looks to hit the sparse warehouse venue: intricate web-like cocktail dresses and demi-couture floor-length gowns revealing a whole lot of skin (and nipple), and black grosgrain full-skirted gown with sultry cut-out back. 'I wanted the collection to have an eclectic feel, but for all the clothing to suit the Thesyskens Theory girl,' explained the charming Belgian designer post-show. 'I also thought about creating a cool attitude with clothing that seems lived in and can be worn with high heels or boots – I also like the idea of creating something timeless that a girl can wear season after season.'