Indigo Clarke reports on the Theyskens’ Theory show
It was a somewhat dark and sparse vision for spring, challenging the prevailing NYC palette and trend for breezy silhouettes – but therein lies Theyskens’ charm
NYC is currently in the throes of a wild love affair with reworked 90s grunge (anoraks, mix-prints to the max, dirty dye jobs ala Grimes), and existing at the centre of the boyfriend-style craze is the visionary designer Olivier Theyskens. Popularising the trend in his own inimitable fashion several seasons ago, Theyskens’ has stuck with the tomboy-chic aesthetic, offering rousing evolutions on the theme with each passing collection.
For S/S13, vintage-vibe grunge attire in a spare palette of black and white was elevated by sophisticated, expertly tailored double-breasted blazers, suit pants and sculptural hour-glass dresses – the last of which, striking floor-length numbers, more than hinted at Theysken’s demi-couture leanings. Long, slouchy summer cape-coats and broad-shouldered leather jackets atop sexy leather mini-dresses touched on an 80s aesthetic, while heavily embellished white and iridescent tailored shifts and jackets worked a 60s-meets-Sci-Fi vibe. It was a somewhat dark and sparse vision for spring, challenging the prevailing NYC palette and trend for breezy silhouettes – but therein lies Theyskens’ charm, he affords the easily-digestible NYFW aesthetic a little moody Parisian sophistication.