Umit Benan is a guy's guy. His collections are effortlessly masculine - beautiful, without ever veering towards dandy dressing. Alongside Benan’s eponymous show, Trussardi has become one of the best shows of Milan Fashion Week. It's a safe bet for covetable but directional fashion.
Continuing on from Spring/Summer's country sojourn, Benan explored the theme of travel for Autumn/Winter, specifically the personal adventures of Nicolas Trussardi. These were clothes for outdoor escapades. The imposing, defined silhouette encompassed long coats, sweeping floor length capes and field jackets, and was toughened further by a rugged palette of autumnal hues like mustard, burgundy and forest green.
Strength and stability are central to Benan's vision of a man. His clothes are about no-nonsense, old school masculinity. But, while there’s no doubt that they will find a home in many a man’s closet, the pointed commerciality of the showing was, paradoxically, its let down. Benan loves to describe himself as a showman and storyteller (he used the latter word in his show notes), but this collection had no clear moral or tale. It was simply about great clothes for well-dressed men. While there’s no problem with that, one couldn’t help but wish for something a little more visionary and extraordinary from the talented Mr Benan.