Topshop Unique seemed to be a luxurious take on Mad Max via Camden clubwear palace Cyberdog.
Fashion always straddles an uneasy divide between art and commerce, but for Topshop Unique the situation is slightly different. Ironically, the millions of pounds of stock shifted by the behemoth of Arcadia raise this collection to something approaching couture, in theory if not in technique: a loss-making PR exercise that really doesn't have to sell. Certainly since super-stylist Katie Grand has been involved, the label's offerings have taken a high-fashion twist. This season, it seemed to be a luxurious take on Mad Max via Camden clubwear palace Cyberdog. Neon green and pink and acid-brights cerise and blue contrasted with black, greige and mushroom in oversized separates and chunky knitwear, while accessories were tough and eye-catching, clutchbags dripping knife-like translucent pailettes or with geometric, geodesic protrusions of leather. Sequins, thickly coating easy sport shapes, gave a precious touch. Hoods, printed silks and (again) those emphasised shoulders kept a fashion feel to proceedings, although the collection made commercial sense. It was easy to imagine them on a shop floor - but with the vast majority rather workaday pieces, they were less suited to the status of a catwalk. Nevertheless, uneasily allying high street with the hautest couture, the blinding barrage of photographs indicated money well spent as far as the Topshop publicity department were concerned.