This season witnessed a new sartorial approach for Viktor & Rolf who steered their aesthetic away from their signature casual and laid-back language that has come to define their menswear. Instead Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren delivered a testosterone fuelled show laced with progressive menswear. Resonating from the runway were bulked up models sporting Russian fur hats, regular suiting, tailored coats and leather trousers.
The newly focused rawness suggested a nod to Eastern Europe and a bolder self-confident take on menswear. Rounded and padded outerwear formed fur-collared parkas, oversized sweaters and leather bombers all with exaggerated and inflated shoulder structures.
By introducing these oversized shapes and bulked up silhouette, the design duo paid homage to the ‘Atomic Bomb’ shape that defined their hugely famed women’s collection in 1998. Coincidently their new men’s fragrance entitled ‘Spicebomb’ was a part of the message and was being touted at the end of the show.
As the partner to the super successful women’s Flowerbomb fragrance, Spicebomb's bottle referenced the shape of the newly formed garments, and the face of the campaign, Sean O'Pry, closed the show.
Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren may recognize the importance of a well-received show, but they also appreciate that staying power in fashion often resides in the ability to offer successful commercial products to their clients – and this season they blended the two.