This season saw Walter van Beirendonck change direction. Leaving behind his casual and carefree approach, the designer went straight down the line. Gone were the hairy chunky models seen for the last few seasons and in were a pack of lean, black boys. The collection entitled 'Hand on Heart' was grounded in the concept of Shamans as the designer took a spiritual turn for the season. Focusing on formal tailoring van Beirendonck presented ultra slim suits varying from neutral tones to bright primary hues. Tribal patterns found their way onto fine wool suits as patchwork and skirts were worn over trousers. Oversized fringed coats rounded up a diverse collection that was apparently disparate in its vision. Walter's shows have previously developed a cult following for their subverted approach to menswear, but this collection just felt - normal.

Report by Hywel Davies on 22 January 2011.