London Womenswear S/S 10

Basso and Brooke

Posted 22nd September 2009 23:46 BY Laura Bradley

Photography by Chris Moore | Catwalking.com

Design duo Bruno Basso and Christopher Brooke said they were thinking how best to greet the second decade of the new millennium when designing their latest collection entitled 'Neo-Pop'. Their three main points of reference came courtesy of artist Jeff Koons, the graphic and sexual appeal of Herb Ritts' seminal nudes and hyperrealistic paintings. As always, their digitised prints were the main focus, this season bearing names such as 'Stardust' and 'Zig Zag Lily' incorporating dream-like landscapes and abstract shapes. The zig zag design worked best executed in monochrome, particularly on a sheer long-sleeved top and in colour across a three-quarter-length dress. Their silhouette alternated between straight and sharp and one that was curvy and fluid; with such vibrant prints, the simpler shapes seemed to work better, especially in the longer dress designs. As well as silk jersey, stretch nets, double organza and silk georgette, the pair also explored new fabrics and techniques, employing cutting-edge technology to printed micro-sequins and bespoke jacquards to enhance the 'wet look' they desired. The collection tapped into many of the trends to emerge from the London shows: belted tailored jackets worn as dresses, nude paneling, pleated skirts, underwear as outerwear and the aforementioned 'wet look' in both fabric choices and the beauty aesthetic.