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PARIS FASHION WEEK: Viktor and Rolf Showroom

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Alex Fury
Alex Fury
United Kingdom

As an alternative to the hectic pace of Paris Fashion Week Viktor and Rolf chose, this season, to again say 'NO' - no to the show, that is, opting instead to show their wares online at www.viktor-rolf.com. V&R are, of course, no the first to do this - Helmut Lang lapped them by over a decade - but accordingly new technologies afforded them a far smoother running than many of their predecessors; no overloaded servers or streaming issues reported. As a portal for showing clothes, an online venue was appropriate enough for a collection inspired, seemingly, by the future of fashion. Titled 'Funny Face' after the fifties fashionista satire that unleashed the mantra 'THINK PINK!', their collection projected this view of fifties couture into the future, with pleated ruffles and frills projecting from outfits like whirling satellite components. Reminiscent of Alta Moda maestro Roberto Capucci, these made-to-order pieces, often embellished like computer components with intricate circuitboard embroidery in oversized Swarovski crystals, were the highlights of a collection that, despite its space-age themes, otherwise seemed relatively grounded in reality. The most striking elements? The slightly sinister shattered-mirror bags and genuinely futuristic Space Oddessy black-and-white striated geometric pattens coiling around simple separates.

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la
la
United Kingdom

That is what you guys did for Hussein Chalayan, Bernard Wilhelm and YSL, you should blow your own trumpet more.
If anyone has been promoting making a film to replace the fashion show it has been SHOWstudio!!!!!!

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Alex Fury
Alex Fury
United Kingdom
In reply to la:

You're right la - and actually, comparing this show to hussein chalayan's is apt, as I find the different reactions to the shows quite interesting. Suzy Menkes criticised the method of showing Chalayan's collection as opposed to the collection itself, or indeed the aesthetics of the film. With Viktor and Rolf, however, she criticised the collection not living up to the potential of the medium.

Maybe this is indicative a general shift in the erstwhile snooty insistence of the fashion press that a film could never compare to a live catwalk show? We'll see...

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