Fashion designer Gareth Pugh creates a dress in the Live Studio. Edited from three days of live footage, this film documents the entire painstaking process behind Pugh's trademark slashed and fettered couture creation.
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Process Film
Edited from three days of live footage, this film documents the entire painstaking process behind Gareth Pugh's trademark slashed and fettered couture creation.
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Process Film
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Process Film
Live Stream Q&A
74 Q&A Posts
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Q. where to get a good pattern cutting desk?
I made mine from MDF. It's really quite simple. Just get a huge piece of MDF from some hardware store and cut it into a square (or oblong if you prefer) then you can paint some nice patterns on it using poster paints. I painted mine black because I like that colour, but you can do anything you like really. Its good fun designing. I might go and some now.
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Q. Oi! Did you get my text this morning???? jenny xxx
Not sure, wots you number?
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Q. What kind of machine are you using and why?
Im using a domestic sewing machine, and a domestic overlocker- because im at SHOWstudio, and not my own studio- i need to use things that are easilt transportable!
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Q. what is your horoscope?
Im Virgo
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Q. Gareth, what's your most favorite fabric to work on?
Ive always liked working with leather.
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Q. If 'fashion' was less glamorous and had less perks, would you still do it?
Does this look glamorous?? I must be missing something!
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Q. coffee or tea? day or night? music or silence?
tea, night, music.
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Q. Favorite snack to munch on in the workroom?
It varies- it always involves a can of coke though- at the minute- its a wispa gold!
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Q. oh, Gareth will you blow me a kiss? K.
Sorry- too late- maybe tomorrow!
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Q. Are you controlling the music in the studio? -FF
yeah.
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Q. Glad to hear you love Alanis, Gareth! Have you ever been to Canada?
No, ive never been up there before.
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Q. What do you think to Gemma Slack?
Gemmas great, shes a lovely girl.
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Q. do you know good fashion schools in sydney?
Sorry Ive never been to Australia.
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Q. what do you want for christmas?
Some guilt free time off.
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Q. drink of choice?
It used to be a gin and tonic, but now its more margarita with salt- nice! Its a Bloody mary for the airport though.
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Q. Your helper Lucy is great, would you loan her out to other designers?
I dont think so!
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Q. is katie shillingford a good friend of yours? her hair i amazing :-D who are the most important people to come to your fashion show?
yeah of course- Katies a really great friend- we just dont see each other as often as Id like- were both generally all over the place with work!
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Q. what size will the dress be? do you know that from start?
Its going to be very stretchy- one size fits all!??? Maybe from a UK 8 to a UK 14- it will of course look different on different body shapes.
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Q. Do you normally use a higher table, made for someone your height?
Yes! Im not sure if back's going to be able to last today and tomorrow! I think im going to have to be wheeled home.
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Q. wh's your little helper there?
Its Lucy- shes been with me at my studio in London for ages- shes a real trooper!!
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Q. can you give me some advice on how to get some $ with having no actual skills?
I hear 0845 numbers pay very well
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Q. One of the many reason why I have such great admiration for you is the fact that you have not been bitten by the bug that causes the deadly DIVA SYNDROME ... very highly contagious in glamour land ... but you continue to literally keep your feet very firm on the ground I absolutely love that strength in your character!.... no question just an observation : )
Well thanks!
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Q. Gareth, how important is futurism in your clothes? Do you have a vision of what fashion will be like, say in 2050?
Its all about tomorrow.
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Q. what was you´re feeling when you showed the first Homme collection in place de tokyo?
Uncertainly and relief- It was my first full mens show, which is obviously completely new territory to womens wear- It was also a really tight and quick turn around from deciding to show, to the actual show date, so it was great that everything came together- thats thanks to a really good team around me, and lost of sleepless nights, but there wasnt any time to relax afterwards as my womens show was 4 weeks later- it was really tough, but amazing.
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Q. Looking great so far! I'm curios: is this how all your creations are made? My dream is to become a fashion designer, and I've always pictured sketching out the designs? although i love that cute little studo.. I wish you best of luck!
Thanks.... I suppose its different for everyone- I know I like to see things happen in front of me, concerning how a fabric reacts, or moves, and then make a decision- I don't really like dedicating an idea to a sketch- things always change so much in the process. Sometimes its important to draw though- if only to help you communicate your ideas to others- and thats a really big part of it all- though like I say, not my strong point!
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Q. who is your style icon?
Annie Lennox is pretty amazing
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Q. what is your favourite place in London?
There are so many, but I think Id have to say my bed.
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Q. Did you drape or flat draft?
Im cutting it all flat- its impossible to know exactly how it will trun out though once its all cut, so its quite hit and miss.
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Q. what colour would a smurf go if you strangled it?
that depends on how hard you squeeze
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Q. have you seen new moon? if yes what did you think? if no why not?
I havent seen it, sorry.
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Q. whats your favourite cookie?
oatmeal and raisin!
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Q. Your PR people are super picky as far as publications go: more picky, in fact, than most luxury brands' PR companies. is it the policy you created together, for the sake of exclusiveness, or is it their own "bitchy fashion" thing?
Thats more of a question for my PR... but for me, I know that with a very limited sample collection, and trying to juggle lots of different shoot happening all over the place, more often than not at the same time- there are a certain editorial shoots that my clothes just have to miss out on- its not a strategy- its just the clothes cant be in two different places at the same time!
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Q. hi gareth♥, what normally come comes first for you - drawing your ideas or choosing the fabric? ♥patricia
They both feed from each other- the ideas certainly solidify once I have my fabrics, and I can see how they react, and what we can do with them- a general shape will come first, which might inform what fabrics I go for, but its the fabrics themselves that dictate what the final garment will look like.
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Q. How long did it take you to learn patternmaking ?
Your always learning- you pick up little bits here and there as you go.
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Q. Is there a particular part of fashion you like the most... fabric, shape/form, colour, flow, the idea behind it, the thoughts/ideas-shaping, the working process/progress, a bigger vision, accessibility... ?
Its all about the clothes.
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Q. Would you recommend traveling overseas to peruse fashion? As a student studying in the USA.
I wouldnt really be able to advise on that- It depends on what you want to do, and how much youre prepared to sacrafice for it.
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Q. How did it feel to have beyonce where your garments?
Its nice to see my things in a new context.
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Q. I LOVE YOU GARETH U ARE TRUELY AN INSPIRATION TO YOUNG DESIGNERS ALL OVER THE WORLD!!! :-) I WANNA MEET YOU FOR ADVICE!!
Thanks.
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Q. Being a Fashion student also from sunderland studying down London, are there any tips you could give to get into the fashion industry. Also any tips for a northerner to survive in the south?
Work, work and work- its very simple... with a bit of good luck thrown in too- that always helps
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Q. what will be the garment? a dress? btw its exciting watching it!!!
Yes- it should be a dress!
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Q. Now you have spent a day on it, how long do you think the whole process is going to take?
Im hoping its going to be done by wed afternoon- hoping!!!!
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Q. the music is far more ecclectic than I was expecting - do you find music has a large influence on you collections?
I listen to a big mish mash of things- its very varied, I wouldnt say that the music that I listen to inspires what I design.
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Q. does the coca-cola help you get more thinking & power in design?
of course!
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Q. what's the idea behind the garment you're making?
Imagine a pork loin wrapped up in string and your half way there- mixed up with a little siren too.
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Q. How did this most recent collaboration with SHOWstudio and SHOWstudio SHOP come about?
Nick asked me to do ita while ago, and since I thought it was a nice idea- I agreed.
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Q. Do you work out because you have a great ass, GP!
Ive never been to the gym before, but I just got a bike last week!
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Q. Hello Gareth, this looks so fantastic from LA, I am really looking forward to photographing the dress when its done! Any thoughts on models?? love Nick
Hi! Im glad you like it- slow progress today though! I might have to hire in some helping hands for monday- i'll see. I think I need a good massage after today- I forgot how uncomfortable scrabbling around on the floor can be.
On models- I think either of the two girls you were talking about for your shoot in london next week sounded perfect- not sure if there in town, but if they are- amazing! Let me know if you find out.
VERY jealous about LA- hope the weathers nice! Im off for a well deserved drink!
See you soon,
Gareth x
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Q. You should come to southamerica
I went to San paulo a couple of years ago- it was amazing! I wish I could have stayed longer. Sometime soon hopefully!
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Q. How do you feel being watched right now???
Odd- Im not used to doing things with eyes on my back- I just hope it doesnt affect the final outfit..... pressure!
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Q. showstudio will give Gareth Pugh a lunch break, right?
Just had a BLT from pret thanks!
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Q. what is your favorite movie & book, that's give you a big influence for design?& when you are down how do you tide over with the bad mood?
Book- Manhood by Michel Leiris
Film- Legend
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Q. Your early work seemed super 'out there' and more in the realm of costume than conventional fashion - but now, everything seems far more commercial and luxurious (NOT a criticism!!). How important is wearabiility for you when you're designing?
As a designer, especially a designer working now, its important to have a strong collection that sells well- I wouldnt necessarily say that my work has chaged solely in respect of this- its all a progression- a learning curve- trying things- if they dont work, then you move on or develp it into something thats good, something that works. Its all about moving forwards.
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Q. any chance of you playing us a bit of Mr Vain by Culture Beat?!
Im sure it will pop up later on!
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Q. That's a fetching shade you've got on your nails there Mr Pugh - what's it called?
Its Hot Mess by manglaze- they made it especially for my show in Paris- I'll need to get them done again after all this though.
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Q. WHAT ARE YOU MAKING!
A dress
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Q. Is the music in the background your personal choice?
unfortunately it is
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Q. after seeing your photo shoot with Nick Knight a while back where you made armour for a horse, i realised how well some of your less commercial clothing could work in film as a lot of your work has a sci-fi feel, would you ever consider folowing in the foot steps of John Paul Gaultier when he did the costume design for Fifth Element and made costumes for a film?
of course, I think it would be great- it would be something Im not used to though- working to a very specific brief- Ive never been asked to be honest- Id love to do the costumes for a ballet or direct a music video too
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Q. Why are you sticking little pieces of seller tape ???
Stay tuned- its a LONG process!
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Q. Can I be your assistant? =)
ive already got one thanks!
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Q. What inspired you to start designing ? Did you have these interests already as a child ?
It was a comination of two things really- coming to London to be part of the National Youth Theatres costume department, and an article on Louise wilson in the back of the Sunday Times magazine- I knew from working at the NYT that i wanted to be in london, then I heard about St Martins, and everything just slotted into place in my head.
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Q. omg you're answering questions now. could i go on a date with you? HAHA
Im not sure how my boyfriend would feel about that.
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Q. What was the most inspirational/important thing that you have learnt from being a part of the !WOWOW! collective?
you cant do anything on your own- it needs to be a collaborative process from the start to make something sucessful and long lasting- of course this isnt true for everything, but particularly relevant to what I do now.
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Q. are you inspired by video games like Silent Hill? The character Pyramid Head has similarities to your earlier work.
Im not really that into video games- I love table air hockey, and pinball though! Im after a pinball machine for my studio.
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Q. Is that plastic part of your frock then?
The plastic isnt part of the final dress, but I couldnt really do it without it- so I suppose it is an integral part, its all going in the bin aterwards though- maybe i'll keep some as a detail! Im not quite sure how its all going to pan out just yet.
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Q. this is so good, how did you make it so good?
?
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Q. What's the fabric called (I missed it) ?
Its a super fine black stretch- very drapey and languid, but very resilliant and strong.
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Q. What's the inspiration for the garment?
Im kind of making it up as i got to be honest. sometimes it best not to over think things too much- we'll see how that one works out for me over the next few days!
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Q. i have never read/heard about you doing a commercial collaboration like a line for the high street or an accessories collection. Would you consider this project as an opportunity to gain more public attention for your brand or do you see it as a creative collaboration only?
This is simply a creative collaboration between myself and SHOWstudio. I would never say never to any sort of commercial venture, or high street collaboration- but it would alway need to be the right thing- the right thing just hasnt come up yet.
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Q. What are you listening to?
a terrible selection of music from my i tunes- im not sure what ive got one here, but most of it is pure tut.
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Q. Did Sunderland influence your vision ?
I grew up in Sunderland, and then moved to London when I was 19, its the one place in the world that I know, or at least knew, the best- like the back of my hand... so I suppose its natural for that side of my life to come into my work- My degree show was all about fair grounds, in a very absrtact way at least, and sunderland came into that a lot.
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Q. What's the best sewing machine ?
I have brother sewing machines in my studio and theyve stood the test of time quite well- I started out on a domestic called a Capri though that my mam nad dad got for a wedding present now thats going bak a bit... it sewed my whole degree collection, and my first 3 collections at LFW- ive still got it- for sentimental resons only of course- it broken ages ago.
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Q. Why are you stapling the fabric down?
I was stapling my flooring so that i can cut on it- the black flooring isnt part of the outfit.
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Q. would you open up a Gareth Pugh shop back up in Sunderland?
Im not sure how well it would do to be honest. Maybe one day!
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Q. are you inspired by music, if so what bands or composers? from Miss B
Thats a tricky one... I love having music on when I work, but its just to fill in the silences. theres so many thing that I like.