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Yorick Blumenfeld, Penny Martin, Paul Hetherington, Paul Barnes, Olivier Alary, Erwin Blumenfeld and Adam Mufti

Experiments In Advertising: The Films Of Erwin Blumenfeld

A unique chance to see the undiscovered, historic film footage of one of the most influential fashion photographers of all time. Three landmark fashion film edits are joined by thematic exploration of Blumenfeld’s comprehensive film holdings, an in-depth explorative essay, an illustrated timeline of the photographer’s life and career and an exclusive interview with his son writer Yorick Blumenfeld

More in this project

  • Overview
  • Fashion Films
  • Advertising & Layout
  • Surrealism & Process
  • Abstraction & Distortion
  • Yorick Blumenfeld Interview Film
  • Yorick Blumenfeld Interview Transcript
  • Essay
  • Chronology

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Chronology

A chronology charting Erwin Blumenfeld's life and career, alongside key examples of his work


  • Erwin Blumenfeld

    Chronology

    Erwin Blumenfeld

    Chronology


  • Born in Berlin on 26 January to Jewish parents. Emma (Cohn) and Albert Blumenfeld.

    Born in Berlin on 26 January to Jewish parents. Emma (Cohn) and Albert Blumenfeld.


  • Enrolls at the Askanisches Gymnasium in Berlin. Meets artist Paul Citroen.

    Enrolls at the Askanisches Gymnasium in Berlin. Meets artist Paul Citroen.


  • Given first camera and begins to take photographs.

    Given first camera and begins to take photographs.


  • Finished his formal education and leaves with secondary-school certificate. Father Albert dies in April 1913. Works as an apprentice dress-maker at Moses and Schlochauer in Berlin.

    Finished his formal education and leaves with secondary-school certificate. Father Albert dies in April 1913. Works as an apprentice dress-maker at Moses and Schlochauer in Berlin.


  • Has first contact with the Dadaists, befriends George Grosz.

    Has first contact with the Dadaists, befriends George Grosz.


  • Meets Lena Citroen, cousin of Paul Cirtroen. Writes poetry, draws and plans to become an actor.

    Meets Lena Citroen, cousin of Paul Cirtroen. Writes poetry, draws and plans to become an actor.


  • Serves in World War I as an ambulance driver for the German Army. Plans to desert to Holland but is arrested. After the war he returns to Holland to join Lena.

    Serves in World War I as an ambulance driver for the German Army. Plans to desert to Holland but is arrested. After the war he returns to Holland to join Lena.


  • Associated with the Berlin Dadaists.

    Associated with the Berlin Dadaists.


  • Marries Lena Citroen.

    Marries Lena Citroen.


  • The first of their three children, Lisette, is born.

    The first of their three children, Lisette, is born.


  • Opens the 'Fox Leather Company', specialising in handbags in Amsterdam.

    Opens the 'Fox Leather Company', specialising in handbags in Amsterdam.


  • Their second child Heinz is born.

    Their second child Heinz is born.


  • Their third child, Frank Yorick is born. The 'Fox Leather Company' moves premises. He discovers a darkroom and begins to photograph female customers. Exhibits at the Kunstzaal van Lier in Amsterdam and submits work to the Ullstein Verlag publishing house in Berlin for appraisal, without success.

    Their third child, Frank Yorick is born. The 'Fox Leather Company' moves premises. He discovers a darkroom and begins to photograph female customers. Exhibits at the Kunstzaal van Lier in Amsterdam and submits work to the Ullstein Verlag publishing house in Berlin for appraisal, without success.


  • Second exhibition of photographs at Kuunstzaal van Lier. Works as Still photographer on Jacques Feyder's 'Pension Mimosas'.

    Second exhibition of photographs at Kuunstzaal van Lier. Works as Still photographer on Jacques Feyder's 'Pension Mimosas'.


  • The 'Fox Leather Company' goes bankrupt. First few photographs are published in 'Photographie'. Exhibits at the Esher Surrey Art Galleries in The Hague. Work is included in a group exhibition organised by Paul Citroen at the Niewew Kuntschool in Amsterdam alongside Man Ray and Mondrian. Meets George Rouault's daughter Genevieve.

    The 'Fox Leather Company' goes bankrupt. First few photographs are published in 'Photographie'. Exhibits at the Esher Surrey Art Galleries in The Hague. Work is included in a group exhibition organised by Paul Citroen at the Niewew Kuntschool in Amsterdam alongside Man Ray and Mondrian. Meets George Rouault's daughter Genevieve.


  • Moves to Paris. Genevieve helps to secure clients for portraits including Georges Rouault and Henri Matisse. Takes on advertising work for clients including Mon Savon and exhibits his portraits at Gallerie Billiet, Paris.

    Moves to Paris. Genevieve helps to secure clients for portraits including Georges Rouault and Henri Matisse. Takes on advertising work for clients including Mon Savon and exhibits his portraits at Gallerie Billiet, Paris.




  • First magazine cover for the February edition of Votre Beauté. Photographs published in Verve, Photographie and around 50 photographs are sold to Coronet.

    First magazine cover for the February edition of Votre Beauté. Photographs published in Verve, Photographie and around 50 photographs are sold to Coronet.


  • Meets Cecil Beaton who secures him a contract at Vogue. Photographs appear in October edition of French Vogue.

    Meets Cecil Beaton who secures him a contract at Vogue. Photographs appear in October edition of French Vogue.



  • Leaves Vogue and secures a contract with Harper's Bazaar to cover Parisian fashion. Works in Marin Munkacsi's studio.

    Leaves Vogue and secures a contract with Harper's Bazaar to cover Parisian fashion. Works in Marin Munkacsi's studio.



  • Interned in concentration camps in Montbard-Marmage, Loroil-sur-Drome and Vernet d'Ariege, France.

    Interned in concentration camps in Montbard-Marmage, Loroil-sur-Drome and Vernet d'Ariege, France.


  • Moves to New York and shares studio with Martin Munkasci. Publishes his first colour cover for the December issue of Harper's Bazaar.

    Moves to New York and shares studio with Martin Munkasci. Publishes his first colour cover for the December issue of Harper's Bazaar.


  • Leaves Harper's Bazaar to work as a freelance photographer for American Vogue. Over the next fifteen years, Blumenfeld's work appears in high-profile fashion and photography magazines including Vogue, Seventeen, Glamour and House & Garden. Begins to work on advertising with clients including Helana Rubenstein and Elizabeth Arden.

    Leaves Harper's Bazaar to work as a freelance photographer for American Vogue. Over the next fifteen years, Blumenfeld's work appears in high-profile fashion and photography magazines including Vogue, Seventeen, Glamour and House & Garden. Begins to work on advertising with clients including Helana Rubenstein and Elizabeth Arden.


  • Work appears on the covers of Condé Nast publications and other magazines.

    Work appears on the covers of Condé Nast publications and other magazines.


  • Work included in 'Seventeen American Photographers' at the Los Angeles Museum.

    Work included in 'Seventeen American Photographers' at the Los Angeles Museum.


  • A selection of his personal work is included in an 'In and Out of Focus: A Survey of today's Photography', curated by Edward Steichen at the Museum of Modern Art, New York.

    A selection of his personal work is included in an 'In and Out of Focus: A Survey of today's Photography', curated by Edward Steichen at the Museum of Modern Art, New York.



  • 'The Doe Eye' is published as the cover for American Vogue and becomes his best-known photograph.

    'The Doe Eye' is published as the cover for American Vogue and becomes his best-known photograph.



  • Works as photographer for the Oval Room of the Dayton Department Store in Minneapolis.

    Works as photographer for the Oval Room of the Dayton Department Store in Minneapolis.



  • Begins to work on his autobiography entitled 'Einbildungsroman'. Kathleen Lévy-Barnett becomes his agent. Experiments with printing Cibachrome photographs.

    Begins to work on his autobiography entitled 'Einbildungsroman'. Kathleen Lévy-Barnett becomes his agent. Experiments with printing Cibachrome photographs.


  • Experiments with making motion pictures hoping to use them commercially.

    Experiments with making motion pictures hoping to use them commercially.



  • Secures his final major client, L'Oreal.

    Secures his final major client, L'Oreal.


  • Completes his autobiography and selects the images for his proposed book, 'My One Hundred Best Photos'. Dies in Rome on 4th July.

    Completes his autobiography and selects the images for his proposed book, 'My One Hundred Best Photos'. Dies in Rome on 4th July.


  • Publication of 'Einbildungsroman' in French and in German a year later.

    Publication of 'Einbildungsroman' in French and in German a year later.


  • Publication of 'My One Hundred Best Photos' in both German and English.

    Publication of 'My One Hundred Best Photos' in both German and English.

About

A unique opportunity to see the undiscovered, historic film footage of one of the most influential fashion photographers of all time, Experiments In Advertising showcases the work of visionary twentieth century image-maker Erwin Blumenfeld. Three fashion film edits by SHOWstudio, created in collaboration with filmmaker Adam Mufti and sound designer Olivier Alary, are accompanied by an essay by Penny Martin, illustrated chronology of Blumenfeld's life and career, and thematic exploration of Blumenfeld’s comprehensive film holdings. An exclusive interview with his son, writer Yorick Blumenfeld, completes this in-depth examination.

Credits / Contributors

  • Yorick Blumenfeld Yorick Blumenfeld
    Writer
  • Penny Martin Penny Martin
    Writer
  • Paul Hetherington Paul Hetherington
    Art Director
  • Paul Barnes Paul Barnes
    Graphic Designer
  • Olivier Alary Olivier Alary
    Musician
  • Erwin Blumenfeld Erwin Blumenfeld
    Photographer
  • Adam Mufti Adam Mufti
    Filmmaker
  • Cinematography: Erwin Blumenfeld
  • Editorial and Creative Direction: 
Penny Martin and Paul Hetherington
  • Film Editing: Adam Mufti
  • Audio Design: Olivier Alary at Ensemble
  • Executive Direction: Nick Knight
  • Interview Filming and Edit: 
Harry Hanrahan
  • Interview Filming Production: Sharmin Nordien
  • Typographic Consultant: 
Paul Barnes
  • Chronology: Laura Bradley
  • Historical Research: Imogen Cornwall-Jones and Laura Bradley
  • Interview Transcription: 
Melissa Taylor
  • Design Assistance: Jenny Campbell-Colquhoun, Eisuke Negishi and Josh Baker

 

  • Special thank you to Yorick Blumenfeld, Nadia Charbit and the estate of Erwin Blumenfeld, without whom this project would not have been possible. With kind thanks to the Charlotte Street Hotel.

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