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Alice Hawkins, Lily Donaldson, Dasha Zhukova, Luci Schroder, Aimee Mullins, Liberty Ross, Daphne Guinness, Ruth Hogben, Rei Nadal, Poppy de Villeneuve, Marie Schuller, Ellie Grace Cumming, Asia Argento, Anna Trevelyan, Polly Borland, Susannah Frankel, Stephanie LaCava, Erica Schreiner, Emma Forrest, Valerie Steele, Caryn Franklin, Lou Stoppard, Harriet Walker, Becky Conekin, Alison Bancroft, Emer O'Toole, Roberta McGrath, Erika Eiffel, Katharine K. Zarrella, Victoria Turk and Tom Guinness

Fashion Fetish

Alongside the 2012 SHOWstudio Shop exhibition 'Selling Sex', SHOWstudio launches 'Fashion Fetish,' a series of fashion films, performances, multi-media pieces and accompanying essays by women in fashion - including Ruth Hogben, Daphne Guinness, Liberty Ross, Aimee Mullins, Asia Argento and Dasha Zhukova - that comment on the contentious and provocative fusion of fashion with fetish.

More in this project

  • Overview
  • Essay: Dolls
  • Alice Hawkins
  • Essay: Furries
  • Lily Donaldson
  • Essay: Fairytales
  • Dasha Zhukova
  • Essay: Objectum Sexuality
  • Luci Schroder
  • Essay: Head Shaving
  • Ellie Grace Cumming
  • Essay: Transfiguration
  • Aimee Mullins
  • Essay: Models
  • Erica Schreiner
  • Essay: Mesh
  • Liberty Ross
  • Essay: Bloggers
  • Anna Trevelyan
  • Essay: Eyes
  • Daphne Guinness
  • Essay: Age
  • Marie Schuller
  • Original Script
  • Asia Argento
  • Essay: Latex
  • Poppy De Villeneuve
  • Essay: Peep Show
  • Rei Nadal
  • Essay: Red Lips
  • Ruth Hogben

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Marie Schuller

Filmmaker Marie Schuller offers up her take on Fashion Fetish in a trio of films. The central work, Visiting Hour, is accompanied by two supporting pieces, Oyster and Pierce. Each an independent work in itself, the films are all born from a separate concept, united only by the fact they all unpick fetish, fantasy and the female nude. 

  • Visiting Hour
  • Oyster
  • Pierce
  • Visiting Hour

    Visiting Hour
    Direction: Marie Schuller; Art Direction: Marlon Rueberg; Model: Alex B; Styling: Tamara Rothstein; Set Design: Alice Kirkpatrick;  Hair: Soichi Inagaki using Aveda; Make Up: Claudine Blythman using Nars; Nails: WAH Nail; Music Direction: Mimi Xu; Steadicam Operation: James Layton; Focus Pull: Bruno Chiecco; Assistant Direction: Sandra Leko; Set Assistance: Alex Williams; Fashion Assistance: Louby McLoughlin and Lucy Wright; Production Assistance: Gibran Ramos; Fashion: Look 1: Bra by Pins and Needles, skirt by House Of Harlot, shoes by Louis Vuitton, Look 2: Skirt suit by Paco Rabanne, boots by Rupert Sanderson, hold ups by Falke, Look 3: Body suit by House Of Harlot, suspender belt by Agent Provocateur, stockings by Falke, rings by Bulgari, Look 4: Dress by Marina Qureshi, thong by Beautiful Bottoms, boots by Rupert Sanderson, hold ups by Falke, Look 5: Bracelets by Bulgari, rings by Zoe & Morgan, Look 6: Mask and suspender belt by House Of Harlot, trousers by Daks, boots by Rupert Sanderson, bra by Coco De Mer; Thanks to: Adam Goodison, Sofie Geradin, Direct Photographic

    Direction: Marie Schuller; Art Direction: Marlon Rueberg; Model: Alex B; Styling: Tamara Rothstein; Set Design: Alice Kirkpatrick;  Hair: Soichi Inagaki using Aveda; Make Up: Claudine Blythman using Nars; Nails: WAH Nail; Music Direction: Mimi Xu; Steadicam Operation: James Layton; Focus Pull: Bruno Chiecco; Assistant Direction: Sandra Leko; Set Assistance: Alex Williams; Fashion Assistance: Louby McLoughlin and Lucy Wright; Production Assistance: Gibran Ramos; Fashion: Look 1: Bra by Pins and Needles, skirt by House Of Harlot, shoes by Louis Vuitton, Look 2: Skirt suit by Paco Rabanne, boots by Rupert Sanderson, hold ups by Falke, Look 3: Body suit by House Of Harlot, suspender belt by Agent Provocateur, stockings by Falke, rings by Bulgari, Look 4: Dress by Marina Qureshi, thong by Beautiful Bottoms, boots by Rupert Sanderson, hold ups by Falke, Look 5: Bracelets by Bulgari, rings by Zoe & Morgan, Look 6: Mask and suspender belt by House Of Harlot, trousers by Daks, boots by Rupert Sanderson, bra by Coco De Mer; Thanks to: Adam Goodison, Sofie Geradin, Direct Photographic

  • Oyster

    Oyster
    Direction: Marie Schuller; Model: Anita De Bauch; Styling: Matt Fox; Assistant Direction: Sandra Leko; Camera Assistance: Stephanie Jed; Fashion: Shoes by Vivienne Westwood, Coat by Dans La Vie

    Direction: Marie Schuller; Model: Anita De Bauch; Styling: Matt Fox; Assistant Direction: Sandra Leko; Camera Assistance: Stephanie Jed; Fashion: Shoes by Vivienne Westwood, Coat by Dans La Vie

  • Pierce

    Pierce
    Direction: Marie Schuller; Models: Sandra Leko and Harriet Lansdown; Styling: Alexander Fury; Piercings: Claire at Tattoo A Go Go; Fashion: Valentino Couture; Thanks to Chloe Orefice

    Direction: Marie Schuller; Models: Sandra Leko and Harriet Lansdown; Styling: Alexander Fury; Piercings: Claire at Tattoo A Go Go; Fashion: Valentino Couture; Thanks to Chloe Orefice

About

Alongside the 2012 SHOWstudio Shop exhibition Selling Sex, SHOWstudio launches a unique project under the provocative title Fashion Fetish. Created entirely by women working in fashion - including Ruth Hogben, Daphne Guinness, Liberty Ross, Rei Nadel, Asia Argento, Aimee Mullins and Dasha Zhukova of Garage magazine - these fashion films, performances and multi-media pieces make a comment on the fusion of fashion with fetish, a contentious and provocative subject. Each piece will be accompanied by an essay by a female writer, each written in 'response' to a specific film. One piece will be released each week for the duration of the Selling Sex exhibition, and beyond.

If, historically speaking, a fetish is a manufactured object which has magical powers, or one that people are irrationally devoted to, fashion is a veritable fetish-factory of 'It' shoes, 'Now' bags, and garments that magically propose to make your life indefinably better. On a less abstract level, fashion has been obsessed with sexual fetishism for centuries. The subtle constraint of the corset, the snugly-gloved hand, a shiny boot of leather - all staples of the well-dressed man or woman, and equally the well-equipped Sado-Masochist. At the turn of the twentieth century, the Pandora's Box of fashion fetish was blown apart - from Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren's proposal of 'rubberwear for the office' in their seminal London boutique SEX, to Gianni Versace's sanitised 'Bondage Chic' of 1992, to the power of John Galliano's 'Sado-Maso' haute couture collection for Christian Dior in 2000, designers articulated the sexual peccadilloes of a select few across the international catwalks. It's fetish as fashion.

Fashion Fetish hands the power entirely to female fashion professionals, asking them to address the notion of Fashion Fetish and examining their individual visions of women. In contrast with Selling Sex, which reimagines the female relationship with sex, Fashion Fetish focuses on a woman's relationship with clothing. Although as fashion historian Anne Hollander has asserted, the nude in art always wears 'The fashion of her time' - fashion's influence can be felt across the naked flesh, her body as 'fashioned' as a corseted ball-gown. Dressed or undressed, this project offers a clear field, a blank canvas and an open mind to a selection of some of the most important women working in fashion today - designers, stylists, models and image-makers - inviting them to present their own interpretation of Fashion Fetish. Their visual interpretations of the Fashion Fetish theme are then used as the inspiration for a host of female authors, journalists and cultural commentators to 'unpick' fetish in a series of accompanying essays, each written to correspond with a particular piece.

Credits / Contributors

  • Alice Hawkins Alice Hawkins
    Photographer
    Working at Agent Provocateur was like being in a pink bubble dream every day, surrounded by beautiful lingerie and beautiful girls.
  • Lily Donaldson Lily Donaldson
    Model
    I wanted the video to feel a bit unpalatable and seedy - like a crappy old VCR that's been found and put on YouTube. Very dodgy and amateur.
  • Dasha Zhukova Dasha Zhukova
    Creative Director
    I think obsession with fashion looms prominently in the everyday, and our fetishes in relation to it are just as habitual as they are sexual
  • Luci Schroder Luci Schroder
    Film Director
    The fall into love can happen so fast, the desire all consuming. The longing to love often preceeding our lover.
  • Aimee Mullins Aimee Mullins
    Actor
    At the moment of fetish perfection, when the 'ball goes into the hole,' the fetishy mind lights up like a candelabra.
  • Liberty Ross Liberty Ross
    Model
    To me the act of dressing up, tying up and fetishism has its primal urges in childhood.
  • Daphne Guinness Daphne Guinness
    Actress
    My fetish is my eyes. I use contact lenses in order to make the world more soft. So I think it may be, to me, another form of defense.
  • Ruth Hogben Ruth Hogben
    Film Director
    This film is so important to me - to be able to explore a woman's different desires about her self, myself. Karlie is amazing to watch.
  • Rei Nadal Rei Nadal
    Artist
    I've finally realised how powerful and personal fashion can be. It transformed me every day into a totally different person.
  • Poppy de Villeneuve Poppy de Villeneuve
    Film Director
    I think fashion films allow people to look again and for longer, the decisive moment continues.
  • Marie Schuller Marie Schuller
    Filmmaker
    Explicit sexual imagery is everywhere, yet female bodies outside the norms of shape, age and size, while beautiful, remain underrepresented
  • Ellie Grace Cumming Ellie Grace Cumming
    Stylist
    I wanted to make a film about triciphilia from a new perspective, taking it away from the seedy websites where people pay to watch girls
  • Anna Trevelyan Anna Trevelyan
    Stylist
    This film is inspired by and based on the Instagram girls we love - Tumblr generation twitter addicts. It's the fetish of self-obsession.
  • Polly Borland Polly Borland
    Photographer
    Our film is a fusion of and continuation of my new body of work and the artistic and emotional preoccupations of Liberty.
  • Erica Schreiner Erica Schreiner
    Artist
    Metamorphosis knits together two paralleled stories about the life of an artist - it's the growth and death of an artist and her art.
  • Valerie Steele Valerie Steele
    Curator
    If you can’t see a person’s eyes, you may feel uneasy, as though something (their soul? their intentions?) were being concealed from you
  • Caryn Franklin Caryn Franklin
    Fashion Journalist
    Our industry’s default setting for showcasing design on an angular teenage model makes for awkward viewing of any new fetish inspired trend
  • Alison Bancroft Alison Bancroft
    Writer
    Fashion is all about radical femininity. That's why people are so threatened by it.
  • Asia Argento Asia Argento
    Actor
  • Susannah Frankel Susannah Frankel
    Writer
  • Stephanie LaCava Stephanie LaCava
    Writer
  • Emma Forrest Emma Forrest
    Writer
  • Lou Stoppard Lou Stoppard
    Writer
  • Harriet Walker Harriet Walker
    Writer
  • Becky Conekin Becky Conekin
    Writer
  • Emer O'Toole Emer O'Toole
    Writer
  • Roberta McGrath Roberta McGrath
    Writer
  • Erika Eiffel Erika Eiffel
    Spokesperson
  • Katharine K. Zarrella Katharine K. Zarrella
    Writer
  • Victoria  Turk Victoria Turk
    Writer
  • Tom Guinness Tom Guinness
    Stylist

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