Girly

Motivated by the fluffy, sparkly bastions of girlishness on the runways recently - from Ryan Lo's tutus to Meadham Kirchhoff's minis - SHOWstudio launches a new series to unpick fashion's relationship with overt, cartoon femininity. Envisaged by editor Lou Stoppard and director Nick Knight, the project features a film by Knight and Rei Nadal alongside scholarly essays and relevant interviews.

About

'The little girl cuddles her doll and dresses her up as she dreams of being cuddled and dressed up herself; inversely, she thinks of herself as a marvellous doll,' writes Simone de Beauvoir.

Using key A/W 14 garments as a starting point - from Ryan Lo's bunny ears and tutus to Meadham Kirchhoff's pastel frilled dresses - SHOWstudio launches an investigation into the exaggerated almost fetishistic girliness championed on some runways, by certain female musicians and celebrities, and, with increasing frequency, on Tumblr and Instagram. The series, instigated by editor Lou Stoppard and director Nick Knight, will explore what this embracing of ultra-femininity and childishness - pink, cartoons, fluff, sparkles - says about attitudes to women and female identity and the luxury industry. We will question what motivates the 'Living Dolls' who embrace this style. Are they reclaiming girlishness? Are they dressing for themselves, rejecting the male gaze and the idea that one should dress to resemble a man to be seen as strong, sticking two fingers up to those who obsessively scrutinise women's clothing in the media? Or is the notion of choice so slippery that one could feasibly presume they are merely conforming to entrenched societal expectations that continue to be reinforced by toy shops filled with pink dolls for girls and blue cars for boys?

Indeed, such is the complexity of the 'girly' trend that it can be read in two directly opposing ways. On one hand as the ultimate sign of women ‘dressing up’ or ‘performing’ for men by turning themselves into passive, pouting, fragile, child-like fantasies echoing a pornified culture that fetishises youth, virginity and inexperience and renders women mere objects. And on the other an example of strength and irreverence; a sign of women reclaiming certain elements of femininity and dressing not to conform but to stand out and please themselves.

The series kicks off with a fashion film, created in collaboration with The British Fashion Council, that shows off and documents the work of key London designers, from Christopher Kane and Simone Rocha to Lo and Kirchhoff, alongside archive pieces from designers such as Luella Bartley and Louise Gray. The film was funded by the BFC Fashion Film initiative, which is sponsored by River Island. The piece plays with ideas of gaze, autonomy and voyeurism and, in a pioneering venture, was made by two directors - Nick Knight and Rei Nadal - working independently but together at the same time. Nadal shot model Ali Michael while Knight captured her at work. The footage from both cameras is presented in the film, so the two visions are united. Both Nadal and Michael were styled by Ellie Grace Cumming. The film shoot was streamed live on 1 and 2 September 2014.

Additionally, essays and interviews explore the topic further. Fashion writers, academics and feminist thinkers unpick the many facets of this style, each offering a unique and personal opinion. They question why a grown woman would want to look like a child, while exploring the look's aesthetic roots. Amongst others, Chris Hobbs tackles fashion's obsession with the language of the internet, while Bertie Brandes offers an update on the 'Girly' trend post-S/S 15, a season that fetishised feminism and femininity. Finally, to unite theory with testimony, and to aknowledge the fact that the style is worn and championed by real women on the street everyday, individuals who embrace and live this aesthetic - from stylists Louby Mcloughlin and Lola Chatterton to designer Ryan Lo - are interviewed.

Shop womesnwear on SHOWstudio / MACHINE-A.

Credits / Contributors

Project:

Concept: Nick Knight and Lou Stoppard
Editorial Direction: Lou Stoppard
Editorial Assistance: Sarah Cleaver

Film:

Direction: Nick Knight and Rei Nadal
Film Edit: Younji Ku
Styling: Ellie Grace Cumming
Model: Ali Michael at IMG Models
Set Design: Andy Tomlinson at Streeters
Make-up: Laura Dominique at Streeters
Hair: Tina Outen at Streeters
Nails: Marian Newman at Streeters
Photographic Assistance: Markn Ogue, Britt Lloyd and Matthias Ribe
Set Assistance: Lyndon Ogbourne and James Robotham
Styling Assistance: Peghah Maleknejad and Rhys Davies
Make-up Assistance: Katy Jane Nannestad
Hair Assistance: Laurence Walker
Executive Producer: Anna Whiting at Gainsbury and Whiting
Producer: Kat Davey at Gainsbury and Whiting
Production Manager: Shion Hayasaka at Gainsbury and Whiting
Live Stream: Liam Bendell, Chloe Orefice and Campbell Addy
Vision Mixing: Charlotte Spencer and Andrew Smith
DIT: Laura Falconer
Runner: Patience Harding
Special thanks to Direct Photographic, Motorcycles Direct and Bon Bon Balloons

Fashion:

Look 1: Ali wears: Pink embroidered silk jacket: Charlotte Lewis; Clear plastic and black floral embroidered dress: Simone Rocha; Purple latex tutu: Atsuko Kudo; Orange and red tutus: Beyond Retro; Pink and black striped tights and white floral choker necklace: Claire's Accessories; Brown and Green metallic leather mary-jane shoes; Meadham Kirchhoff. Rei wears: Yellow wool suit: Marques Almeida; White net top: Vintage John Galliano for Christian Dior; Diamante hair grips: Claire's Accessories
Look 2: Ali wears: Lime green embroidery Anglaise dress and pink tutu: Ryan Lo; Yellow tulle prom dress and red 'Boy Magnet' trucker cap: The Contemporary Wardrobe; Pink intarsia socks: Stylist's archive; Purple shoes: Converse; Silver chain necklace: Slim Barrett; Pink pig bag: Ashley Williams. Rei wears: Black star patchwork detail denim top: Claire Barrow; Blue crushed velvet trousers: Marques Almeida; Glitter socks: Stylist's archive; Black suede with pink and turquoise detail clogs: Sophia Webster
Look 3: Ali wears: Red metallic snakeskin coat, mint green silk long sleeve lace dress, mint green slip dress, mint green silk trousers with black lace detail, pastel rainbow knee high boots: Meadham Kirchhoff; Black and mint green embroidered tulle tutu dress: Mairead Lewin Vintage; Red floral jewel choker: Susan Caplan; Pink pearl and red stone necklace: Slim Barrett; Pale blue organza gloves with bow detail: Cornelia James. Rei wears: Blue crushed velvet jacket: Marques Almeida; yellow high-neck top with black cat print: Ashley Williams; Blue sequin embroidered denim jeans: Ashish; Blue glitter ankle socks: Nude leather platform shoes: Vivienne Westwood
Look 4: Ali wears: Pink plastic hooded parker: Anais Caulfield; Pink wool roll neck and pencil skirt: Sibling; Light brown latex skirt: Atsuko Kudo; Pink wool tights: Meadham Kirchhoff; Tan leather with perspex heel clogs: Georgina Goodman for Luella; Silver crown: Slim Barrett. Rei wears: Black PVC coat with pink fur lining, pink dress with black lace detail: Christopher Kane; Purple glitter tights: Pamela Mann
Look 5: Ali wears: Purple full skirt dress with feather detail and steel toe cap black velvet boots: Alexander McQueen; Clear plastic skirt with white floral embroidery and black sheer ankle socks with pearl detail: Simone Rocha; Blue layered lace skirt: Ryan Lo; Purple latex tutu: Atsuko Kudo; Embellished pink knickers: Charlotte Lewis; Ring by Delfina Delettrez. Rei wears: Yellow chiffon long sleeve top with feather detail: Marques Almeida; Yellow sequin dress with black kitten motif: Ashley Williams; Pink leopard print ankle boots: Vivienne Westwood
Look 6: Ali wears: Pink sweetheart taffeta dress and pink and white tulle skirt: Vivienne Westwood; Clear sole sandals: Simone Rocha; Jewellery: Freedom at Topshop. Rei wears: Blue and yellow lace dress with neon floral detail: Erdem; Rainbow glitter tights: Stylist's archive; Nude leather platform shoes: Vivienne Westwood
Look 7: Ali wears: Pink PVC jacket with mongolian fur trim: Paige-Amber Broom; Pink silk chiffon printed blouse and pink sequin bra: Meadham Kirchhoff; Light brown Latex trousers with pink ribbon ties: Custom made by Atsuko Kudo; Pink satin open toed poodle heels: Charlotte Olympia. Rei wears: Pink nylon short sleeve t-shirt with red leather trim: Ashley Williams; Pink 'playboy' dress: Charlotte Lewis; light brown leather thigh high boots with pink ribbon ties: Custom made by Atsuko Kudo; Pink and ombré orange stiletto shoes: Charlotte Olympia
Look 8: Ali wears: Pink marabou headband: Piers Atkinson; Floral bow headband and multicoloured metallic dress: Luella; White sequin t-shirt: Ashish; Bracelets: Susan Caplan; Silver unicorn bag and orange and turquoise lace-up boots: Sophia Webster. Rei wears: Yellow fur cropped jacket: Marques Almeida; Blue and pink swimsuit: Louise Kay Hoyle; Metallic blue denim asymmetric skirt: Marques Almeida; Lilac fishnet tights: Jonathan Aston; Black suede with pink and turquoise floral detail clogs: Sophia Webster
Look 9: Ali wears: Grey tulle embroidered body: Topshop Unique; Yellow and red beaded bra: Louise Gray; Red metallic snakeskin skirt: Meadham Kirchhoff; Pink cotton socks: Topshop; Yellow fluffy sandals: Charlotte Lewis. Rei wears: Orange fake fur coat: Shrimps; Pink fur top: Marques Almeida; Pink, red and white lace trousers: Ryan Lo; Pink leopard print boots: Vivienne Westwood

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