Laura Lees titled her latest collection 'London's Calling' - and, as an East End embroidery specialist who has plied her trade for the likes of Giles and Luella (those much-praised embroidered denim jackets from Luella's sophomore collection were Lee's work), there's an essential, integral Britishness to all of her work. Showcased via a film that seems a combination of Benny Hill, The Avengers and Blue Peter's 'Here's One I Made Earlier,' her Autumn/Winter 2009 collection is no exception - the title (and her technique) may reference Punk, but Lee's inspirations come from all walks of distinctly English life. Thus, alongside simple
schoolgirl-style pinafores and body-hugging knits, we have touches of Bette Lynch leopard, the classic, stereotypical trench and bowler-hat of the English gent, and a touch of the saucy, Carry on Camping Britishness of embroidered and frilled satin knickers, bras and camisoles. The graffiti scrawl is Lee's signature, recreating everything from philosophical sayings, to song lyrics, to scribbled obscenities on toilet-doors, and this season these embroideries snake across silk, wool and cotton shirt-dresses and stiff sixties shifts. Lest we forget that Britannia rules the waves, Lees gave us ample reminders in a neon Nautical theme emerging through Jolly Roger-emblazoned sweater dresses and intarsia stripes that combined the London skyline with sailor tattoos.