For her Lucid collection, presented at Paris Fashion Week on 8 March 2016, Dutch designer Iris van Herpen explores the concept of lucid dreaming. Within a lucid dream, the dreamer is conscious of the dream state and therefore is able to exert a degree of control on what is happening.
The garments were made available to Nick Knight and stylist Amanda Harlech before the show to create a dynamic fashion film. The work was edited by Younji Ku and features a custom soundtrack by Salvador Breed and Stijn van Beek.
'When I design, the draping process most of the time happens to me unconsciously. I see lucid dreams as a microscope with which I can look into my unconsciousness. In this collection, I have tried to bring my state of ‘reality’ and my state of dreaming, together,' explains van Herpen.
There are two main design techniques presented in the collection: the lucid looks and the phantom dresses. The lucid looks come from the designer’s continuous collaboration with the artist and architect Philip Beesley. These looks are made from transparent hexagonal laser-cut elements that are connected with translucent flexible tubes, creating a glistering bubble-like exoskeleton around the wearer’s body. The phantom looks are made with a super light tulle to which iridescent stripes are fused, shimmering the silhouette illusory.
Continuing van Herpen’s vigor of fusing technology with handcraft, the collection features two 3D printed Magma dresses that are combining flexible TPU printing, creating a fine web together with polyamide printing. One of the dresses is stitched from 5,000 3D printed elements.