Featuring 651 exhibitors and 760 brands, the Pitti Immagine Uomo show has opened the trading calendar for mens contemporary fashion and textiles for 67 seasons. Writer Hywel Davies was in Florence to report on the exhibition’s highlights as well as to offer coverage on the mens international clothing and accessories collections.
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Correspondence
Creative Potential at Pitti?
Thursday 21st June 2007
As we arrived in Florence airport last night the local IKEA logo cast a blue and yellow shadow over the runway. Was this a metaphor for what was in store at Pitti Uomo? A one-style suits all, flat-packed fashion trade show?
In Italy fashion is big business and Pitti Uomo is the backbone of Italian menswear. Twice a year international buyers and press descend on the event to consume the latest trends and new products for the impending season - a full 12 months in advance.
Whilst some journalists believe the event is a strategic meet and greet the advertisrs, others see it as an important precursor to the menswear shows which start in Milan this Saturday and then move onto Paris.
The event features all incarnations of menswear including casual, formal and contemporary clothing. Howevr recent years there has been a shift to more formal wear brands showcasing their collections at the event - much to the disappointment to the cool cravers that attend from European style magazines.
As a reaction to this last season, London's Boom Box club was invited to spice up the mix and inject some urban hedonism into the event. Whether club kids mixing with Italian suits was productive, it did give the event an edge and inform future possibilities of keeping Pitti in the picture.
Each season organisers also invite a special guest designer to jazz up the style proceedings. Previously Martin Margiela, Raf Simons and Veronique Branquinho have all held special presentations during Pitti.
This evenibng Diesel will present their much hyped Liquid Space Show that will be webcast live on www.diesel.com Over 12 months and millions of Euros in development, the event will communicate the brand's weight in the global industry.
We are reporting live at the event over the next two days and documenting the latest fascinations and fads from Pitti Uomo.
Funeral Attire
Thursday 21st June 2007
Amongst the insipid brands and monotonous commercial clobber at Pitti Uomo UK based designer Aitor Throup offers 'The Funeral of New Orleans' collection. A conceptual presentation inspired by Hurricane Katrina and the Jazz musicians from the city. The garments follow Aitor's fascination with sculptural form and construction. The hat is informed by the traditional Jazz singers from New Orleans. www.aitorthroup.com
Beats International
Thursday 21st June 2007
A special area in Pitti Uomo is dedicated to promoting emerging design talent. New Beat(s) showcases young and avante guarde design. The highlight of the exhibition is Mammiferes de luxe by designer Kyuin Chae who trained under John Galliano. Creative tailoring creates complex quirky garments that fuse simple shapes with concentrated tailoring.
www.mammiferesdeluxe.com
The New Black
Thursday 21st June 2007
Pitti sees the launch of Puma's latest evolution - The Black label. Moving on from the 96 hours collection which foscused on a capsule collection for the traveller - the new Black Label fuses fashion and sportswear. Patent two-tone trainers reference sports detailing and innovate through a strong fashion sensibility.
Pre Diesel
Thursday 21st June 2007
Minutes before the Diesel Liquid Space event, creative director Wilbert Das describes the anticipation back stage. "I want the audience to have a emotional response to this experience. It questions what is virtual and what is real." Inspired by the under water world the Diesel show at Pitti Uomo has drawn huge crowds outside. Update later.
Hologram Heights
Friday 22nd June 2007
The highlight of Pitti Uomo 72 has just finished. Diesel's Liquid Space show involved hologram deep sea fishes and turtles interact with models clad in a futuristic uniforms of all white. A urban underworld was created as reality was fused with illusion. A fashion show spectacle taken to the extreme. Where next?
Post Aquatic Illusions
Friday 22nd June 2007
The Diesel devotees party under a nocturnal light show to celebrate the end of the fuel injected promotional campaign.
Happy Accessory
Friday 22nd June 2007
Day 2 of Pitti Uomo and post Diesel's hydro inspired performance last night the UK press are looking slightly less then perky. However amongst the standard, neutral and commercial collections on show we spotted a bag with a smile. Perfect. Part of Samsonites new Waifer and Concertine collection the stylish hold-all is a refreshing moment in this grey haze of conformity.
Sport Style
Friday 22nd June 2007
Costume National Active is the latest new offering from designer Ennio Capasa. Joining the fashion / sportswear concept that is evident everywhere at Pitti the luxury trainers are finished by hand for ultimate brand appeal. To celebrate the 21st anniversary of Costume National a limited edition deluxe model will also be up for grabs in nappa leather and crocodile detailing.
PR Perspective
Friday 22nd June 2007
UK based Mandi Lennard who nurtures many new designers in London such as Gareth Pugh gives her opinion on Pitti Uomo, "There is a certainly level of formality and presentation at Pitti, something newer London designers could really benefit from. It would be great to see Pitti develop an area dedicated to this in the near future and in doing so further enhance their event."
Japanese - Danish combo
Friday 22nd June 2007
At Pitti Uomo most of the exhibitors' areas are saturated with their corporate style branding to commuincate their values. It was therefore a welcome relief to see the promotional illustrations for footwear brand Kawasaki. The Danish company with a Japanesse name used large style drawings that broke away from the standard methods currently used for communication. Perhaps this is a way forward for Pitti to encourge the brands involved to think outside the exhibtion box and create a more dynamic experiece for all involved.
Final Thoughts
Friday 22nd June 2007
Leaving the encloser of Pitti Uomo after two days of digesting the spring / summer 2008 offerings is a relief. Experiencing 48 hours of mainstream Italian style is challenging. The event which although impressive in scale has at times been repetitive. The visitors - mainly male Italian buyers and press have this season subscribed to a uniform of white jeans and stripy shirts - tucked in and finishded off with a Gucci belt. Whilst tracking fashion tribes can be fascinating their uniformity only reflects the collections present at the event. Pitti certainly knows how to do the fashion business - however it would be far more stimulating if there was a further injection of new ideas and creativity. Commercial clothing shouldn't negate creativity and Pitti's future can be enhanced and secured if it considers fusing fashion with forward thinking methods of presentation. The invitation of a special guest designer each season is a key draw for journalists and gives the event a fantastic focus. It would be positive to see more collaborations and creative projects that would add value to the Pitti Uomo experience. Tomorrow the fashion pack decamp to Milan for the menswear catwalk shows where it is the turn of the luxury brands to deliver their style mantras for next season.