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  1. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Simone Rocha at the London Show Rooms

    Newly relocated to Le Loft, an impressive and expansive venue in the Bastille area, London's finest emerging designers' new Paris Fashion Week home was warmed this morning with a brunch hosted by Sarah Mower. A hugely important boost to designers' positioning in a global fashion market, the expanded selection of 26 designers including London Fashion stalwarts Mary Katrantzou, Craig Lawrence and Louise Gray have been showing us through their offerings for Spring/Summer 2012.

    Only London could provide the home to a designer that can now count a brogue raised on a polygonal perspex heel as a signature, but it is Simone Rocha's innovative mix of materials that is steadily building her a reputation as one of London's brightest talents. Standouts include trenches and dresses of vinyl-encased lace providing a reverent yet modern archival of British tradition and lingerie delicacies with the bold graphic impact of banded lace.

  2. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Billowing primrose yellow at Gaspard Yurkievich

    With models tracing the circular showspace of the Grand Hotel's Salon, Gaspard Yurkievich today showed his womens and mens collection that was built around a quote from Aldous Huxley's Point Counter Point, "maybe this world is another planet's hell". Taking this and countering it with imagining Earth as another planet's paradise, Yurkievich presented an ease and simplicity through exploring permutations of the coatdress for the ladies and boxy 7/8 leg suiting for men. Although inspiration and presentation were somewhat abstracted from one another, Yurkievich presented a neat and easy-to-digest collection, with particular successes laying in the re-engineered mens shirting, a key piece emerging from this collections season.

  3. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Roland Mouret's collection bathes in the aquamarine light

    Showcasing his enviable command of balance between millimetre-perfect tailoring and geometric drapery, this morning saw Roland Mouret present a typically polished collection at the Hôtel Westin with new additions of Arts and Crafts appliqué leather tulips, Twomblish bouclé with the appearance of musical notation and literal exaggerated eyelets complete with grosgrain lashes. To a springy Bossa Nova soundtrack, Mouret's palette ran from aqua to oxblood with mustard and graphite completing the Rio-ready summer offering.

  4. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Military frogging marches down the runway at AF Vandevorst

    As if wrapped improvisationally in paisley shawls, satins and scraps of uniform, AF Vandevorst sent out their model army onto an apocolyptic asphault runway this evening in a show that replaced the aggressive undertone of military with a sense of sensuality. Many strode out adorned with mohican headresses of stiletto plumes, roses and silver pendants impacting spectacularly in the final line-up with models taking a bow to each edge of the hall.

  5. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Leather brimmed hats and loose net drapery at Ann Demeulemeester

    As Paris steadily approaches 30 degrees in late September, Ann Demeulemeester's voluminous draped layers wafting along a sandy catwalk had serious appeal. A shrugged, shawled feeling was enhanced by fringing at borders of loosely tailored garments and in elegantly shaggy fringed jackets; the collection communicated a relaxed grace that one associates with the most prized luxury of all: time.

  6. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Café carnival at Manish Arora

    Opening with an elaborate mise-en-scène of a flouncing madame ordering models to be seated at café tables and then to exit the runway, Manish Arora showed a characteristically flamboyant and celebratory collection earlier today featuring plumed peplums and audibly heavy embroidery. Retaining the carnivalesque palette that forms his signature, the kaleidoscope was tempered towards the end with a monochromatic festival crowd print, a graphicism possibly linked to his association with freshly revived Paco Rabanne for whom Arora shows his first collection on Tuesday.

    Comments

    1. Gabrielle
      02:56 13 Jan 2012
      Your posting raelly straightened me out. Thanks!
    Comment
  7. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Nicola Formichetti and Sébastien Peigné's Mugler tribe emerge at the S/S 2012 finale

    Opened by a video of Lady Gaga (complete with golden Swarovski-encrusted grills) as Mugler Woman warning the audience not to "fuck with Mugler", the empowered, pseudo-aggressive sentiment evolved into a procession of organically-armoured alpha women. Strong shoulders (sometimes just the one), contorted and entwining layers and shoes with a mechanical feel appeared in a defined palette of beige, white and black and closed day two of Paris Fashion Week with a definitive 'don't mess' message.

  8. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Limi Feu Spring/Summer 2012

    Popping its collar and doffing its cap to a laid back neo-ska soundtrack, Limi Feu showed her Spring/Summer 2012 collection today to a rapturous crowd that included one very proud father who sneaked in at the back at the last minute. Pied in places and mostly monochrome in keeping with the 2Tone, the collection tailored a relaxed silhouette prepped for serious dancing and was both youthful and modern, unbound by its historical subcultural references.

    Comments

    1. Arry
      03:03 27 Oct 2011
      Ab fab my godoly man.
    Comment
  9. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Commuun layers it on slick

    Following Anthony Vaccarello's decidedly revelatory showing at the same venue, the Cité de la Mode et du Design saw a nod to concealment with Commuun's Spring/Summer 2012 show. Layered with panels of reduced Bauhaus fades then a chirpy bird of paradise print and a line of copper threaded throughout (in zips, fastenings and the occasional tone-on-tone Full Monty), the collection billowed elegantly in the dusk Quai d'Austerlitz breeze and was a pleasing end to day one of Paris Fashion Week from designers Kaito Hori and Iku Furudate.

  10. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Anthony Vaccarello's modernité sportive

    SHOWstudio's Paris Fashion Week began in earnest this afternoon with Anthony Vaccarello and his defined and refined take on sport and sensuality. The Cité de la Mode at du Design's airport-sized runway provided the backdrop for Vaccarello's mostly navy collection of contouring and caressing utilitarianism with asymmetry expressed most interestingly in a demi-culotte effect in dresses, a grand finale of which appeared on Karlie Kloss, the last in a stellar list of models eager to support Vaccarello getting into his stride just in time for Summer 2012.

  11. by Ben Knight Evans .

    PUNKATURE by Nick Knight & Alister Mackie: 3-day shoot broadcasting from today

    With some of fashion's most extreme and unpredictable pioneers at its helms, it's no surprise haute couture's most serenely beautiful garments have often communicated an underlying sense of the silent revolutionary.  As fashion's most flamboyant and in-your-face subculture, Punk meets the artform head-on as Alexia, Shauna, Sakia, Billie and Harmony took to the streets of London with an Ansel Adams-esque urban landscape as backdrop in PUNKATURE, Nick Knight and Alister Mackie's story for the Winter 2011 issue of AnOther magazine. The three day shoot, captured on the streets surrounding SHOWstudio's Mayfair HQ will be broadcast in its entirety beginning today 26 September from 18:00 BST / 10:00 PST and is an unmissable view behind the camera and behind the scenes of this poetic and powerful story.

    Comments

    1. Ujang
      19:00 1 Sep 2013
      i found some high res pics and they make quite clear that it is a one of a kind thing. you can really feel the oil coulor and texture...
    Comment
  12. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Café Conversation with Alexia and Robin Wight

    Star of AnOther magazine's epic Punkature story shot by Nick Knight, model and student Alexia Wight will be coming into SHOWstudio Shop's Bruton Place pop-up cafe this afternoon as the latest participant in our Café Conversations project exploring the cultural forum that forms part of the café's societal legacy. Broadcast live honouring the voyeuristic 'see and be seen' nature of cafés from La Coupole to Les Deux Magots, conversation number two is set to be a family affair with Alexia accompanied by her father Robin.

    Alexia and Robin's Café Coversation will broadcast live from 1530 BST today 23 September

  13. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Relaunching today: 24 Hrs by Nick Knight and Stefano Pilati

    Relaunching today is 24Hrs, a project conceived in 2008 by Nick Knight and Yves Saint Laurent's Stefano Pilati as part of the house's introduction of its Edition 24 line. With 24 films each depicting an hour in the day of a woman played by model Jessica Miller, 24 Hrs invited screenwriters from around the world to submit scripts for a four-act, 24-part story that is now available to view alongside its accompanying 78-page catalogue, narrations of each scene by actor Dan Stevens and a series of one-line mini-manifestos collected in the spirit of the politically charged Paris of the early 1960s.

    Recent comments

    1. vicky ellers
      04:13 23 Sep 2011
      Loved the color of the lipstick and the nail polish! I'm looking forward for this project.
    2. Nick Knight
      08:20 27 Sep 2011
      Hello Vicky,
      the project already happened in 2008!
      It is one from our archives that has been revamped and relauched.
      We are going through the whole of the SHOWstudio archive and reworking all the major projects.
      We obviously didn't make this clear enough , sorry...clearly still a lot to learn.
      Best wishes,
      NIck
    Comment
  14. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Proud new owner of Mugler's Les Smokings jacket
    Superhero and performance artist Theo-Mass

    Purchased as part of a multi-part mission (with each part requiring a new costume), comic-book escapee, superhero and performance artist Theo-Mass Lexileictous alongside his beautiful sidekick has just purchased Mugler's Nicola Formichetti and Romain Kremer-designed future-techno Les Smokings jacket from SHOWstudio Shop. Distributing his currency around the streets of London, Paris and New York in a bid through commercialism and creative expression to restore himself to a 2 dimensional state and return to the comic-book pages he has left blank, may Lexileictous go boldly in a Le Smoking fit for heroism.

    Comments

    1. matthew.williams
      19:47 21 Sep 2011
      AMAZING!
    Comment
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