It's couture season but if you're missing the menswear collections, our Paris panel discussions are now available on-demand. Resident chair Daryoush Haj-Najafi and industry experts including creative consultant Mimma Viglezio, Sang Bleu editor Reba Maybury, designer Maarten van der Horst and many more unpicked the Autumn/Winter 2015 offerings from key shows including Gosha Rubchinskiy, Walter Van Beirendonck, Raf Simons, Rick Owens, Louis Vuitton, Loewe and Etudes.
Today we wave goodbye to the last of the Paris menswear A/W 15 collections and head straight into haute couture S/S 15. Join us for more live panel discussions as we watch and dissect some of the most highly anticipated shows of the season: Dior, Chanel, Jean Paul Gaultier and Valentino.
Sharing their thoughts on Christian Dior on Monday 26 January at 17.00 GMT is fashion historian Lucy Norris, V&A curator Oriole Cullen and designer Rosie Wallin. Analysing the Chanel show on Tuesday 27 January at 10:00 GMT, are designer Deborah Milner, fashion journalist Julia Robson, auction specialist Kerry Taylor and curator Alison Moloney.
Then, tune in once more on Wednesday 28 January at 14:00 GMT for a Jean Paul Gaultier discussion, featuring Stylus Media Group editor Katie Baron, Metro's Style editor Bel Jacobs, designer Caroline Charles and fashion writer Camilla Morton. Finally, be sure to catch an in-depth look at Valentino on Wednesday 28th January 17:30 GMT with matchesfashion.com’s Verity Parker, curator Sonnet Stanfill, The Independent’s Rebecca Gonsalves and Caroline Charles.
You can also stay up to date on the rest of the couture shows right here on our Collections page.
Fashion Film has long been a tool to present fashion students' work to a wider audience online and the RCA has been at the forefront of the genre for some time. For the past two years, the RCA fashion class used film to present their work; You can watch the MA 2013 film by SHOWstudio contributor Marlon Rueberg here or have a look at last year's MA offering with three separate fashion films as well as a discussion and live stream here.
This week the RCA presented the student work in progress show and the fashion class once more decided to use fashion film. Filmmaker Maxim Kelly was commissioned to create a three minute film including work by students across menswear and womenswear, as well as knitwear, millinery and accessories. Each student contributed one full look - or in case of accessories, one piece. The diversity of the students is reflected in the breadth of creative output.
Maxim Kelly's film captures this vast range of designs perfectly in his surreal and humorous filmic rendition which launched at the show's private view.
The RCA Work In Progress show is on until January 25th so make sure to catch Kelly's fashion film and the students' work while you can!
SHOWstudio is proud to launch Psy-Active Mutation, a new fashion film showcasing the Spring/Summer 2015 collection from emerging lifestyle brand P.A.M. (Perks and Mini). Shot on location, the film tells the story of human transcendence - a human 'alien' is found on a distant planet, embalmed, and sent off into the 'next life', shining and enlightened. Directed by Misha Hollenbach and with a soundtrack by electronic music producer Lee Gamble, the atmospheric film combines retro sci-fi with contemporary fashion.
Our resident illustrator Gary Card has been hard at work illustrating the key looks from the Paris A/W 15 menswear collections, and the results are beginnning to appear on our Tumblr. Following on from Unskilled Worker's coverage of Milan and Chloe Feinberg's portrayal of London Collections: Men, Card's subjects so far include Walter Van Beirendonck, Valentino and Raf Simons.
Check out Card's striking, ink-rendered figures and be sure to follow his progress on Tumblr as the Paris collections continue. Don't forget to check out his work as a set designer too, on Nick Knight and Dinos Chapman's project Agathe and Seraphine's House featuring model Lily Donaldson.
The menswear collections continue in Paris, but you can revisit the Italian shows with our panel discussions, now available on-demand! Daryoush Haj-Najafi and our industry expert panelists unpicked the Autumn/Winter offerings from Marni's Pitti Imagine show as well as Milanese icons Prada and Versace, pondering vularity, nostaligia, gender-bending at Prada and the lack of pants at Versace.
We're rounding off our coverage of the Autumn/Winter 15 menswear shows with two of Paris' most discussion worthy shows, Loewe on Friday 23 January at 16:00 GMT, and Études on Saturday 24 January at 13:00 GMT.
Unpicking the Madrid-based house's second collection with star designer J.W. Anderson at the helm, our Loewe panel will feature the expert verdicts of i-D's senior digital editor Dean Kissick, creative consultants Gianluca Longo and Mimma Viglezio and LCF's Rob Phillips. This season's creative output of the Études studio collective will be analysed by Cake on Coffin PR's Maria Pizzeria, stylist and music producer Henry Mackay-Bull, 1 Granary editor-in-chief Olga Kuryshchuk and T-R-E-M-O-R-S editor Maksymilian Fus Mickiewicz who will join our chair, Complex UK's Daryoush Haj-Najafi on Sunday at 13:00 GMT.
Tune in to watch these panels live and review all our A/W 15 menswear collections coverage while you wait, with curated image and social media feeds, show reports by our editor Lou Stoppard and all the rest of our insightful panel discussions, available to watch on-demand.
Introducing Gary Card, the latest guest illustrator to give their take on the A/W 15 menswear collections.
Following on from Unskilled Worker, SHOWstudio's resident artist for the Milan menswear collections, Card's original artworks inspired by the Paris shows will be appearing on our Tumblr page over the course of the week. The set designer and illustrator is one of London's most talked-about talents, having previously collaborated with SHOWstudio on Nick Knight and Dinos Chapman's Agathe and Seraphine's House project for Garage magazine.
Head to our Tumblr to find the full series of Unskilled Worker’s wonderful Milan-inspired artworks.
Following London, Pitti and Milan we're finally at the last leg of the men's collections - Paris! Join resident chair Daryoush Haj-Najafi and a host of industry experts as they consider the season's biggest shows.
On Wednesday 21 January we'll be kicking things off with a discussion of the Gosha Rubchinskiy show featuring Masha Mombelli, Anastasiia Fedorova, Kyle Steward and Alban Adam at 15:30 GMT. This will be followed by a closer look at Walter Van Beirendonck's collection with help from Hettie Judah, Maarten Van Der Horst, Carri Munden and Curtly Thomas and at 17:30 GMT. Last but not least, tune in at 20:30 GMT for observation and analysis of Raf Simons with John-Michael O'Sullivan, Dean Kissick, and Rob Meyers.
The next day, Thursday 22 January, we'll be talking Louis Vuitton at 13:30 GMT with Mimma Viglezio, Katie Baron and Paul Gorman, followed by an examination of Rick Owen's A/W offering featuring Maarten Van Der Horst and Rebecca Gonsalves. Phew!
There will be more to come this weekend as we ponder Loewe and Etudes but in the meantime, you can stay up-to-date with menswear happenings including runway shots, social media feeds and Lou Stoppard's runway reviews, all available on our Collections page.
Introducing Unskilled Worker, the latest in our stable of guest illustrators capturing the key looks from the Milan A/W 15 menswear collections.
Following on from Chloe Feinberg, SHOWstudio's resident artist for London Collections: Men, Unskilled Worker's original artworks can also be found on our Tumblr page. The London-based, self-taught artist rose to prominence via her wildly successful Instagram account, her striking portrayals of faces and fashion drawing a large following.
Check out Unskilled Worker's first works right now on our Tumblr - Marni, Bottega Veneta and Ermenegildo Zegna amongst them - and follow her progress as the collections continue. Don't forget to review Feinberg's delicate renderings of the best from LC:M too.
Artwork by SHOWstudio contributor Patrick Ian Hartley goes on display tomorrow, 17 January, in a new exhibition titled Faces of Conflict hosted by the Royal Albert Memorial Museum (RAMM) and the University of Exeter. The exhibition puts an unflinching focus on the the facially disfigured casualties of World War I, highlighting the ways in which artistic practice fed into surgical practice (in the work of sculptors as mask-makers or epithesists), and how radical new forms of surgery changed the context in which artists represented the face. The presentation features artwork produced in the immediate aftermath of the war by artists such as Otto Dix and Wyndham Lewis alongside contemporary pieces from Hartley, René Apallec and Eleanor Crook. These are displayed with various medical instruments, surgical documents and masks that illustrate the unprecedented innovations in maxillofacial surgery at this time.
While new military technology proved lethally efficient during the war, the same advancements had not been made to rebuild the shattered minds and bodies exposed to the shells ands shrapnel they spread. Physically maimed veterans were encouraged (through government policy) to remain out of the public view for fear of horrifying or provoking the masses and as such undermining the war effort. There were however, artists at this time who exposed the full horror of these mens' suffering. Otto Dix's etching Skin Graft portrays a face ravaged by mechanised warfare. Drawn with direct reference the injured men he encountered during his own service, the portrait presents a cuttingly ironic militarised man. Grotesque, ghoulish and gangrenous, the subject's suffering is glaringly depicted. Other artists paired with surgeons such as Harold Gillies in order to create ever more effective prosthesis.
Hartley began investigating the pioneering work of Harold Gillies after his collaboration with Dr Ian Thompson in sculpting bio glass facial implants, (you can hear the pair talk about this in an exclusive interview on SHOWstudio). His research lead him to create the Wellcome Collection funded Project Facade, for which he examined the lives of a number of Gillies' patients who had undergone experimental maxillofacial surgery. Hartley embroidered military uniforms with details of each of his subject's histories using the stitching and suture techniques developed by Gillies for his surgery. For Faces of Conflict in Exeter, Hartley has revisited this project, looking particularly at one individual, Walter Ernest O'Neil Yeo. Yeo was a gunner on board the HMS Warspite and suffered cordite burns during the Battle of Jutland. He was treated by Gillies and while the surgery was entirely successful in restoring function to the eyelids, the aesthetic results were not entirely satisfactory. Gillies freely admitted that mistakes had been made at the pre-operative stage, which resulted in an infected skin graft thickening and giving the impression of a mask.
Hartley documents the pivotal events in Yeo's life in a diptych featuring a naval uniform and a hospital gown of the type worn by these patients. Through fabric manipulation, digital embroidery, appliqué, heavy burning and branding, these pieces of apparel narrate the story of this serviceman in an incredibly intimate way. The duress under which Hartley puts each item of clothing echoes the violence suffered by Yeo's own body. This work and many others are on view, and Hartley's residency at the university continues this year. The exhibition is open to the public from tomorrow until 5 April at the Royal Albert Memorial Museum and Art Gallery in Exeter.
Image: Patrick Ian Hartley, From Yeo Diptych, 2014, Vintage patients gown, digital embroidery, appliqué, branding
Courtesy Patrick Ian Hartley
Tune in at 19:00 GMT this Saturday 17 January to watch a panel of industry experts including creative director Harris Elliot and fashion photographer Amarpaul Kalirai dissect Donatella's dream for the male Versace customer in a live-streamed video chat.
On Sunday 18 January at 17:30 GMT Vogue.co.uk's Jessica Bumpus, milliner Stephen Jones, Machine-A's Stavros Karelis and Anna Pesonen of SSAW magazine join our resident chair, Complex UK's Daryoush Haj-Najafi to unpick master designer Miuccia Prada's latest menswear offering.
Don't miss these insightful discussions and while you wait, revisit our on-demand panels from LC:M covering Cottweiler, Craig Green, Nasir Mazhar and MAN amongst others. Be sure to keep an eye on our live curated social media and runway image feeds, as well as show reports by our editor Lou Stoppard.
In the latest addition to our In Conversation series, a group of experts gathered with members of the public to discuss the provocative work Chair by artist Allen Jones. This piece is currently on display at the Royal Academy, where this discussion was held, along with other work from the artist’s long career. Leading the debate, which discusses reactions to Chair then and now, was Art Under Attack; Histories of British Iconoclasm curator Stacy Boldrick. Invited speakers included conservator Lyndsey Morgan who worked on Chair after it was sabotaged with acid in 1986, fashion commentator and feminist Grace Woodward, and Edith Devaney, curator of Allen Jones RA at the Royal Academy of Arts, who each present their own personal reactions to the work.
Considering reactions to the piece since its creation in 1969, the discussion cites media depictions of controversial artworks, the destruction of artworks as feminist protest and the peculiarities of the visual language of BDSM. The conversation verges around subjects of the suffragettes, the 2002 film The Secretary and the fashion photography of Ellen Von Unwerth, as Woodward comments; ‘It raises the question, if this was made by a woman would we even be sitting around talking about it?’ On the topic of public responses to art exhibitions, Morgan also points out that ‘people get disgusted at a distance, I feel that happens often with shows I’ve been involved in. People go off and talk and go ‘it’s terrible’ and you say ‘well have you been?’ and they haven’t.’
London Collections: Men is finished but you can still head over to Tumblr to view artist Chloe Feinberg's illustrations of the key shows! Feinberg has depicted looks from LC:M favourites including Sibling and Christopher Shannon as well as young designers Sankunz and MAN, all in her signature sweetly surreal style.
Stay tuned for the Milan shows as seen through the eyes of self-taught, London-based illustrator Unskilled Worker!
Join us tonight for our first and only Pitti panel of the season as we unpick the Marni show!
Resident chair Daryoush Haj-Najafi will be sitting down with creative consultant Sharmadean Reid, editor Dal Chodha and writer Natalie Theo as they ponder the Autimn/Winter 2015 collection and the current climate of Italian menswear.