Kiki Georgiou’s final show reports for the Paris collections are in! Read her reviews of the Louis Vuitton and Alexander McQueen collections, or catch up on the action at Valentino, Chanel and Saint Laurent.
Georgiou encapsulates the Louis Vuitton show as an insomniac collection of luxurious and seducing silk satin slip dresses with lace trim and 'a dream of a pink silk coat'. In the background, a film directed by Ruth Hogben offered depth and a story to the collection.
Chiming with the slumber chic at Vuitton, there was also 'a moment of peace and serenity' at Alexander McQueen. Sarah Burton's collection was described as 'an amuse-bouche, in the middle of a busy schedule…and a welcome chance to pause, stare and marvel at what the McQueen atelier can produce'.
For the Chanel collection, Georigiou's review noted the that Karl Lagerfeld is 'a designer who might think big but whose feet are firmly on the ground'. While at Valentino, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli took a more obviously artists approach by drawing inspiration from austere and haunting portraits by the Flemish masters, including Vermeer and his Girl With a Pearl Earring.
Controversy shrouded the anticipated Saint Laurent show. Georgiou’s report stated that Hedi Slimane ‘was a rebel without a cause’. 'Maybe we’re to take this offering as a plaid-clad middle finger to anyone going into a show these days with a per-prepared list of boxes to tick: fabric innovation, clever knits, mid-century mash-ups, a story,' she pondered.