What when why wear: having thoroughly deliberated, dissected and digested the offerings of fashion's great and (not so) good for A/W 2011, our fashion director Alexander Fury offers his views of each of the world's fashion capitals in turn. Where to start? Well at the very beginning - a very good place to start. For the fashion world, each womenswear season begins in New York, this time with a crafty offering from Proenza Schouler, something pioneering from Rodarte and Marc Jacobs just going dotty. And if that bit of punny lingus hasn't satisfied you, there's plenty more in the first of our city-by-city round-ups of A/W 2011.