An Ann Demeulemeester show is always difficult to review, because her aesthetic is so consistent. That's one way to put it. In fact, Demeulemeester's show can easily blur into one single monochrome mass. Her dresses are muted, mainly black, sometimes white. Today we had a few shots of blue that stood out. Its the difference that really jolt.
Autumn/Winter 2012 will be known in the annals of Demeulemeester as the fighting-cock coiffure season. Every head sported a mass of quivering feathers standing tremblante around the face. Demeulemeester sometimes comes across as a frustrated twitcher, such is her love for a bit of feather frippery fluttering about her silhouettes, the only chink of frivolity in her dark dark armour. This season, however, it was less armour-like than usual, the tailoring softened in sinuous silk draped around the body, although draped with fewer of those annoying dangling tie-type things that sometimes clutter Demeulemeester's lean, mean clothing.
Ultimately, this collection added nothing new to the Demeulemeester mix. But for the legions of hardcore fans that flock to every one of her shows, children of the night decked out in their inky finest from three generations of fashion fans, the same old Demeulemeester is exactly what they want. There's an undeniable power to that kind of devotion - it's called religion.