Rei Kawakubo was in a punk mood for her latest collection presenting a gaggle of dressed down boys with bright orange hair. All adorned with studded headbands, Kawakubo’s message fused a faded nod to rock with an elegant subversion to style.
Slouchy overcoats were paired with pajama suits as Kawakubo’s sometimes-jaunty approach to menswear was toughened up with a dynamic rock edge. Red tartan, camouflage, leopard print and gold lame textures were contrasted with stark shirt-and-pant combinations to great effect.
Patched together contrasting fabrics and silhouettes, another Comme signature, looked modern but in some ways familiar. A grey pinstripe coat was patched with strips of black snakeskin and studded leather while a duffel coat was made out of light jersey.
Central to the collection’s success was the precise tailoring in the forms of classic coats, jackets and pants all of which were skillfully handled. A fusion of patterns and prints were worked into soft trousers and elegant frock coats and added richness to the avant-garde style that is intrinsically Comme.
Comme’s return to manly clothing is welcome and this retro but frank collection proves Kawakubo’s vision is as focused and relevant as ever.