Where to start with Dolce e Gabbana? Provocative gender politics aside, the Italian duo certainly know how they like their women: crimson-lipped, Catholic and bombastically curvaceous. This season, the dynamic duo travelled to back to their roots: a deep, dark vision of the Southern Italian woman, steeped in religion and potently sexual. Brooding introspection? Forget about it! This was an excuse for Dolce e Gabbana to do what they do very best: unabashed, unadulterated, smouldering sex-pot, with models dressed to undress, teetering on high heels and decidedly cinched at the waist. The old idea of underwear-as-outerwear - namely that even older idea, the corset - has been a feature of many a collection for S/S 2010 but never to quite D&G's shameless degree. Dresses in rose-strewn silk or scarlet leopard were stretched drum-tight over formidable boned bustiers and bra-seamed at the bosom, or else the corsets simply came out alone, in black or white lace accompanied by brief skirts or big knickers (it was toss-a-coin time to calculate which covered more). Even when the duo did ostensible menswear, with crisp shirts and Conquistador-styled jodhpur suits in finely patterned wool, they were built on a wasp-waisted foundation that left no doubt as to who really wears the trousers. If it wasn't so gloriously well-executed, it would all have been a bit much - but after a good twenty-five years in the business, Domenico and Stefano know when too far is just far enough. This collection was all about Dolce e Gabbana good, proper and true, namely those early 1990s shows when D&G trussed supermodels in girdles and bras like postmodern Anna Magnanis. Indeed, those seam-straining black lace or crochet frocks and baroque rosary jewellery - the pulling gear of a four-time Sicilian widow back on the razz - could have come straight from one of those old shows. But when it looks so damn good second time round, you don't see me complaining.
The dynamic duo travelled to back to their roots: a deep, dark vision of the Southern Italian woman, steeped in religion and potently sexual.