'Lightness' is the title Giorgio Armani gave to his latest Emporio collection - and as the man who first took the stuffing out of the tailored suit back in the seventies, it's something of a leitmotif of his work. It's also just what you want come summertime, as the current heatwave engulfing the Italian fashion capital proves (even the usual all-weather high-octane fashion week get-ups have been thin on the ground).
Therefore what that lightness entailed was business as usual for Signor Armani: relaxed tailoring, soft neutrals, lotsa slouch. Sometimes you get a little bird writing that, especially when the rest of the menswear crowd is marching to the same beat. There was a slight eighties feel to some of the pieces - Armani defined that decade after all, and it's difficult to look at a creased linen suit without thinking of the Armani Ease circa American Gigolo. The ties thrown over the shoulder were a Bratpack touch, a styling gimmick which maybe went a bit wry. I suppose the idea of them being light enough to flutter away kind of fits the theme?
Missteps were few and far between. Unlike some Armani shows where you can't help but wonder who in their right mind would shovel-on these kind of get-ups, it was easy to imagine these sailing straight off the catwalks and onto mens' backs. Granted, those wouldn't be the hyper-fashionable backs that cluster around got-to-have-it names on the Milan fashion week calendar like moths to a flame, but for Armani's ever loyal coterie of fans, this was the proverbial horn of plenty.