“Greetings from paradise,” announced the postcard invitation to Jeremy Scott’s spring show at Milk Studio, and what a brazen journey we went on to “the land of sunshine” for spring 12 – set to the rockin’ tune of Motley Crue’s strip club anthem ‘Girls, girls, girls’. With a fantastically kooky crowd in attendance, as loud vocally and aesthetically as the irreverent wares being paraded down the catwalk, the audience was treated to a cartoonlike Wild West feast of purposely over-the-top sexy 90s and fetish-inspired looks. Girls with Dolly Parton-like bouffant hair and pig-tails, sweeping false eye-lashes and drawn on cutesy freckles, stepped out in skin-tight high-waisted denim skirts and jeans with bustier tops, while for the boys it was all comical coyboy style rippling muscles – chap pants and jeans revealed Jeremy Scott underwear beneath, paired with low-cut leather vests to showcase worked-on pecs.
There were cow-hide and fun cactus prints throughout, worn by girls and guys donning harnesses and pistols, playfully winking and faux-shooting as they walked the runway, and classic country-style yeehaw fringing – cascading down leather hot-pants, trousers, skirts and vests (an all-over gold fringed leather ensemble a particular stand-out). All in all it was a riot of good-humoured eccentricity and pop-culture references – a wonderfully obscene vision of cowgirls and cowboys let loose in saturated colour and fetish fabrics. Jeremy Scott is a reminder of the New York 70s and 80s underground art scene – an amazing and perverse world of deviancy and innovation, and it’s what makes his shows such a delight each season, to remind us that no matter how commercial NYFW may be, fashion can still be subversive.