As the snow engulfed Paris, news circulated that John Galliano is set to return the fashion world by collaborating with New York based collection Oscar de la Renta. So it was left to Bill Gaytten to re-focus the press on his latest offering for John Galliano menswear.
Inspired by German artist Joesph Beuys, the trilby hat and short, baggy pants of the artist set the slouchy silhouette for the show. Models swaggered in loose and flowing coats and jackets with large turtlenecks defined a masculine, no nonsense palette of camel, burgundy, olive and black attire.
Over-sized patterns, hand-drawn pinstripes and photo print of trees all explored the Galliano signature of clever print and colour, but Gaytten realised them in his own restrained and focused way. Smart evening suits were detailed with embroidery details at the knee and waist and took the artistic aesthetic to a smarter finale.
The collection was less Galliano and more Bill Gaytten as the designer seems to have accepted his restrained approach is the right path while he holds the reigns at the label. Gaytten’s experience of working for the brand especially his expertise in tailoring is admirable, but it is difficult not to sense the void (the story telling and energy) left by Galliano.