There are many ways in which to measure the power and importance of a show. You can look at the names of the models walking and if you recognise at least three of them from a Girls of The Season list it’s a goody. You can ask around to see how many editors were allocated those two little panic-inducing letters ‘ST’ (this reporter included) and from that figure out the popularity/venue size ratio – important: think in sadomasochist terms, i.e. the more popular the show the fewer people the venue sits. And if the following thought strikes you at least once while watching it you’re on to a game-changer, 'ooh, I never thought I’d want to wear a so-and-so but now…' Tick all of the above for Jonathan Saunders and here’s one more to take home with you: if you can see yourself wearing every single look straight after the show and for the remainder of your days on this silly little planet of ours you need to file this one under ‘Special’.
Not since Prada’s A/W10 show have breasts/boobs/bosoms taken centre stage. And just like Miuccia, Saunders brought sex back into the conversation. The opening look seemed innocent enough in its army green bustier and flared skirt but the vinyl applique did not seem wholesome enough. The following belted jackets over knee-skimming skirts, one in brilliant mustard, the skirts patent and glossy and slowly the bodices got more defined until a shiny wet taupe dress appeared, its breasts moulded on. That it still looked chic as hell tells you everything you need to know. The other thing you ought to know by now is that Saunders is a brilliant colourist – the shine of a black patent jacket complimented the orange of the skirt and powder knit it was teamed with, the baby blue hem of a skirt peeking underneath a belted orange coat, just so. That thing you didn’t even know you wanted until now? Why, a fuzzy pale pink skirt suit, of course!
Hanne Gaby Odiele in a sleek and slinky black diaphanous velvet devoree dress and red strappy heels, her hair flicking to one side may just be the sexiest girl we’ve seen so far this season. No, wait – so was Kaitlin Aas in a shiny red oh-my-straps-keep-dropping-off number. There was glorious-looking emerald lace held tight by a glossy corset and an all-white glistening leather dress as hot as melting vanilla gelato. And then there’s Mr Saunders himself, of course, who’s rather hot too.