They say fashion is becoming more and more of a circus each and every season. Getting into the shows now involves beating your way through a pack of photographers while those street style stars in their clown-like ensembles pose and pout outside. Kenzo are, in part, to blame for this - those famous tiger sweatshirts are the bloggers' uniform and have burned the Kenzo brand name onto the retina of every fashion fan in the world. It's apt then that the duo chose to show their S/S 14 collection in the Académie Fratellini, a school that teaches the arts of the circus. The show took place in the school's amphitheatre, where models walked a large circular runway - apt given that today Kenzo is a brand that focuses on delivering the same cycle of sellable, wearable, Instagram-able product season in, season out, rather than moving things in any unexpected direction.
But that consistency is no bad thing. Kenzo's all about commerce and product - there's nothing cerebral going on here, and why should there be? Humberto Leon and Carol Lim do cheery, easy fashion better than anyone else - their trick is an accessible price point, a jazzy print - this season a graphic wave - and a sympathetic silhouette. For S/S 14 they'd made the latter extra relaxed, inspired by the cool kids in and around California. So linen trousers came cut wide and just above the ankle like those worn by skaters, while t-shirts and shorts came oversized and slouchy. All in all it was a grungier, more nineties look than last season's preppy cloud-prints, but nothing too challenging for the committed Kenzo boy.