'Choose Life' was the title of the latest collection by Kris Van Assche's, who proclaimed, 'You are what you wear. And there is a literal confrontation to be found in this idea within the collection. All of menswear abides by the same codes anyway, no matter who you are and what you do, whichever social strata you are from. I like to think that there is now a new generation who will not abide by these rules.'
Van Assche’s familiar story of blending smart and casual formed a series of successful hybrids. This ‘cut and shut’ concept ran throughout the collection. From the ‘Rugged, Rough ‘N’ Tough’ slogan sweat shirting sliced through a wool suit, down to the hybrid shoes, a remix of half derby, half trainer, the message was focused on cutting and joining sporting and tailoring elements together, creating garments that fused function with a stylish vigour.
Fabrics were also mixed up. Cotton pique from evening shirts was constructed into a casual blouson. Formal wool suiting fabrics was found in sportswear and sporty symbols (an eagle) reoccured as a motif throughout. A top with a crisp white shirt neckline merged into bands of different shirting and sweatshirt fabrics. Sweaters consisted of woven strips of different knit designs to great effect. Part college sweatshirt and part tailored jacket looks continued the theme and chopped up suits and outerwear pieces all looked sharp and youthful.
Van Assche upped his ante this season and the energetic collection was convincing.