The first designer on the MAN rostrum was Thom Murphy’s label New Power Studio. Launched in 2009 Murphy’s collections continue to fuse theatrical presentations with sportswear inspired clothing. His new collection entitled, ‘The Last Dance’, was inspired by the rituals, costumes and props associated with hen nights and also the traditional Roman Catholic Carnival which marks the beginning of lent.
This mixture of high and low culture is key to Murphy’s approach and as a stylist Murphy employs all the tricks of his trade –joss sticks worn as arm jewellery, a child in a jump suit, a penis beret and plastic breast poking from beneath a jacket. The clothes may have got lost in the styling theatrics but Murphy does create masculine and solid sportswear shapes – the best this time were stain track suits tops and bleached over sized t-shirts.
Central St Martin’s graduate Felipe Rojas Llanos is currently stocked exclusively at Browns, and the designer continues to develop his minimal modern luxury approach to menswear. The collection, “The Grand Hall of the Mountain King’ was inspired by the world of ballet and opera and explored how voluminous shapes and sculptured silhouettes can be translated into menswear.
Felipe Rojas Llanos approach to clothes is refined and linear. A base palette of black was set against bold block colours – specifically red and turquoise. Silks contrasted against textured wools and cotton, and the rounded silhouette on jackets has become a distinct trademark for the brand. A dramatic black, open-front, voluminous coat and a turquoise tuxedo were stand out pieces of the coherent collection.
Martine Rose described her new collection as ‘Sculptural, Brave and Textural.’ Mixing different fabrics and creating three-dimensional shapes was key as Rose presented a strong and relevant concept. Inspired by the multi layered style of desert tribes, Rose created armour by mixing materials that delivered warmth texture and protection – notably t-shirts were made from hypothermia blanket fabric. Fleece, wax, faux fur and felt were used to further protect the wearer. A technically advanced collection that had thought provoking undertones.