For a few seasons now, Miu Miu has been grappling with its identity. There have been celebrities walking, clashing denim additions and, in all honesty, a lack of finesse. Miu Miu had begun to feel more akin to Marc by Marc Jacobs than a high-fashion brand in its own right. One could argue that because this season's Prada show had called upon familiar Miu Miu tropes - youth, femininity and eerie sweetness - the borders of Miu Miu and Prada were more blurred than ever, but thanks to this season's introduction of a new Miu Miu symbol by M/M Paris, a firm line between Prada and Miu Miu had been drawn.
The two brands now felt like high-fashion friends, inspired by each other - rather than the big sister - little sister relationship that had unfortunately begun to form. The logo was created to look like a face, a pet or a flower, friendly and affectionate, but with a touch of abstraction. It is pop-culture kawaii fodder, fun and light-hearted and perfect for Miu Miu. This season was a thankful remedy to Miu Miu's previous ails: a cherry-picking of the Miu Miu elements of the Prada show - micro-fringing, schoolgirl-esque jumper and shirt combinations, headbands - elevated the collection instantly. A hefty dose of crystal embellishment on earring, sandal, platform heels and belt were a reminder that while high-fashion, the success of the brand lies with the whimsical accessories and glamour. These, combined with tailored blazers, sequinned shirts and slick pencil skirts in ethereal organza or strong snakeskin, were a perfect parity.
There were reminders of youth everywhere: the new Miu Miu logo on the back of a blazer neck reminded one of the previous season Vetements, while lolloping great platforms in candy purple and pink satins were Miu Miu at its best. The denim that I had once snubbed, was back and better in long seam-filled A-line skirts and deep V puffball mini-dresses. Cropped jumpers and cut-out dresses exposed a delicate triangle of flesh, a new subverted erogenous zone for the Miu Miu woman. Fun, rebellious, snappy and seductive - Miu Miu was back with a bang for S/S 19.