On first impressions it appeared Nathan Jenden was taking us on a trip around the world, first stop Britain with his take on the Pearly Queen jacket and onto India, with a T-shirt dress bearing a Hindu Goddess and a Sari-inspired high-neck mini. But the multi-destination journey was short-lived, with Jenden settling on India as his main source of inspiration, injecting the culture's shades and shapes into many of the twenty-four looks. A distinct departure from his almost entirely black collection last season, this is the first time Jenden has worked bright colour throughout since his 1980s inspired 'I Want Candy' collection for Spring/Summer '09. New for Jenden was the use of print - exotic, striking designs sometimes clashing with one another, other times peeping out of a pocket or under a dress. Ideas did seem a little thin on the ground, the floral Goddess print, which also adorned the show invitation, was evident in six or so looks including a strapless pleated dress and vest and trouser set. Tailored jackets featured heavily, paired with pencil skirts, full skirts, loose printed vests, harem pants and leggings; many of the trousers would have benefited from being a few inches shorter. This was all about excess - the startling prints and shapes were accompanied by details such as beaded neckpieces and waistbands, multi-coloured buttons sewn onto jacket arms, satin bows and jewelled panels and accessories including purple metallic heels, printed hats, sunglasses and stacks of sparkling bangles.
New for Jenden was the use of print - exotic, striking designs sometimes clashing with one another, other times peeping out of a pocket or under a dress.