This season it all seems to be about survival of the fittest - or rather, surivival of the toughest. It was some kind of relief, therefore, to be greeted at Peter Jensen with the kind of playful innocence and whimsy he does best. As always, the collection was titled after and dedicated to a woman: this season, Jensen's muse was 'Jytte', apparently a Danish aunt relocated to deepest, darkest and most artic Greenland. Remember Jensen's snow-scattered offering for SHOWstudio's Christmastide? Well evidently the fruits of this collection were in those snapshots: despite the unseasonably warm weather today, Jensen's girls and boys were wrapping up and layering on for a truly white Christmas come 2009. This all gave Jensen an excuse to trot out what he does best: a madcap mix of day, evening and everything inbetween, balanced on Inuit-embroidered white kidskin boots and topped by lurex-knit houndstooth beanies. The styling made the show, which was actually constructed from innumerous wonderful and wearable pieces Jensen fans will know and love. There was a vague eighties feel to some (tartan silk-taffeta prom dresses, crystal-striped socks and thick duchesse satin evening gloves), and a sense of grungy nineties thrift to others, with tablecloth checks, flowered chiffons and chunky knits. Those new to his work will find much to enthuse over, with classic cardigans, blown-up dogtooth checks and faded florals. Those old-faithfuls will find their favourites reinterpreted, alongside new additions like knuckle-deep down puffas and hefty satchels in butterscotch and purple. The optimism, however, was quintessential, old-school Jensen. And we demand nothing else from him.
The styling made the show, which was actually constructed from innumerous wonderful and wearable pieces Jensen fans will know and love.