The opulent surroundings of the Opera Suite at the InterContinental Paris Le Grand provided a perfect backdrop for the polished and elegant collection Sophia Kokosalaki showed for Spring/Summer. Remaining loyal to the garment she knows best (the dress), this season sees the addition of smart blouse and short ensembles and cropped jackets, including a standout example in nude soft leather. Blouses were cleverly cut, with sharp shoulder details and flattering necklines worn with voluminous belted shorts, incorporating those all-important pockets. Promoting a soft, sumptuous colour palette, the elegant dress designs, all of them short, worked in draping, pleating, sheer panels and zip fastenings at exactly the right points. Details were sexy yet subtle - the arch of a bra cup on show, nude panel inserts, low square-cut backs and grey net that hugged the model's shoulders. This is a female designer who understands her customer well. Kokosalaki stayed loyal to her Greek heritage with asymmetric draping, folkloric tassels and black thorn embroidery, as well the clever inclusion of gold jewellery, created in collaboration Athenian jewellery maker and goldsmith Lalaounis. Kokosalaki goes from strength to strength, having celebrated her tenth anniversary of her eponymous line last season and in June, was confirmed as the new designer of Diesel's premier line, Black Gold.
This is a female designer who understands her customer well.