The words of Andy Warhol, “People look at anything' was scrawled across the huge black board that was positioned at the end of the YSL catwalk held at the Sorbonne in Paris. Was Stefano Pilati goading his audience to take note of his brave new statement that was a harder and younger take on the YSL design language.
As Madonna's 'Justify my Love' infiltrated Warhol’s spoken sound track Pilati’s intention was clear – and so were the clothes. With undercurrents of sex and aggression, Pilati’s sharper cut suits were toughened up with hard-edged leather details and ultra-sharp proportions.
The opening look a jacket with lapels in leather was strong, and established the tone for a hugely successful show. Leather played an integral role edging wool coats, super slim trousers and razor knit sweaters. Pilati’s precision tailoring was out in full force and the collection exuded confidence. Belts tied around the body enforced the S&M references and shoes shone with metallic straps.
This sublime and self-assured collection was Pilati at his best. The cohesive and masculine vision was appropriately pitched, being both edgy and modern. Set to keep YSL at the edge of cool, the collection wasn't too directional or progressive to it puts off its current customer base - but innately modern and relevant.