Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garcons unveiled punk inspired youths for her winter collection in a presentation that explored androgynous boys in heeled shoes and jet-black wigs.
The gothic aligned collection was both dark and elegant as waif like boys paraded in Victorian inspired tailoring. Linen shirts, pleated skirts, cropped trousers and tailored jacket were delicately constructed. A rose print on oversized coats, hats attached to heads with ribbons and neon socks added to the sexless approach, which returned into focus when Kawakubo explored a mix of tailored and textured pieces in signature tweed, tartan, polka dots and pinstripes.
Rei Kawakubo continues to prophesise the gender gap in her menswear collections and while the designer’s fey approach is sometime difficult to penetrate, the designer has an ability to showcase an enduring pull to her vision. While time often stands still, and is sometimes warped, during a Comme des Garcons presentation, it is the designer’s unique enquiries into menswear and masculinity that keeps everyone guessing and consequently going back for more.