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Show Report: Maison Martin Margiela A/W 12 Menswear

by Hywel Davies on 21 January 2012

Hywel Davies reports on the Maison Martin Margiela A/W 12 menswear show.

Hywel Davies reports on the Maison Martin Margiela A/W 12 menswear show.

For Maison Martin Margiela's winter presentation the design team presented a static exhibition showcasing a selection of refined garments and accessories enthroned behind panels of glass. A short runway presentation bought the collection to life as character models wore classic and grown-up styles mixed up with Margiela’s recycled concepts.

The ‘Replica’ line reworks classic styles and this season camel coats were formed into different incarnations including an overcoat, peacoat and a duffle. Other key pieces included a black satin tuxedo jacket paired with drawstring trousers and a chunky cable knit. Fur lined sweaters and coats with shaved sheepskin added interesting details to archetypal shapes.

In typical Margiela form there were transformable clothes, including a parka made from dustbin bags, and a biker suit that unzipped into trousers, a vest or a jacket. Leather trousers, which have become the ubiquitous staple for next season were shown in faux leather and were styled in suits for a subverted approach to fetishism.

Margiela's menswear is defined by its classicism and many of the standard staples were covetable, chic and totally wearable. A polished and refined the collection had just enough edge and subversion to keep Margiela in the headlines and consciousness of his customers.

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