Olivier Theyskens has the cool girl covered. Everything an understated girl-about-downtown could possibly ask for Theyskens’ has sent out in spades each season since his hugely successful partnership with Theory was struck 18 months ago. And while the skilful Belgian designer’s couture-like sensibility may have initially seemed at odds with the American label’s office-ready aesthetic roots, the marriage of European artistry with American pragmatism has proven a perfect match – and Theyskens has the front row of it-girls, including Sky Ferrera and Leigh Lezark (and more impressively the sublime Julianna Moore), to prove it.
Following last season’s lead, for A/W 2012 Theyskens sent out an understated collection conceived largely in sharp navy, black and charcoal – his grungy Theory favourites in reworked form all making an entrance from boy-friend trousers, slouchy knits and leather biker jackets to purposely worn-in t-shirts. Of course, there were conservative pieces fit for an uptown soiree thrown in too, including beautifully tailored blazers, knee-length skirts, structured outerwear and (somewhat funereal) demi-couture full-length organza dresses in a variation on the flawless cut Theyskens’ introduced last spring. The effortless wares appeared a perfect balance of Theyskens and Theory’s dual aesthetics – with such harmony of style, it’s little wonder the talented young designer has been newly named Creative Director of the American sportswear brand.