The gleaming vinyl white runway signalled that Kris Van Assche at Dior Homme was in a modernist military mood. Focused on designing meticulous clothes for the future, Van Assche enlisted technical fabrics and finishes and produced a super slick collection.
The look was skinny and referenced the body skimming-tailoring that rejuvenated Dior Homme several years ago. The space exploration theme, inspired by 1997’s 'Gattaca', allowed Van Assche to look to the future in an optimistic way.
The collection was clinical and focused on models in zippered black suits with buckled safety belts focusing on a nipped in waist. Belt buckles also appeared on shirt collars and oxford shoes. Black nylon as trims on trench coats and suits gave the collection added sporty energy and suits were layered, with outerwear in matching fabrics.
Van Assche’s collection was striking and its pared-down approach represented the austerity that Dior Homme does so skillfully. The sanitised futurist exploration was perfectly executed. Certainly one of the stronger collections the Belgian designer has created - this minimal austerity offers optimism and purity in a frenzied world.
