Set against a backdrop of Mount Everest's summit, a thunderclap signalled the beginning of the Louis Vuitton Autumn Winter show. Entitled ‘The Magic Mountain’, designer Kim Jones took the idea of the Vuitton traveler, journeying to the Himalayas. Jones went to Bhutan, the only place in the world where snow leopards and tigers cross paths, and these animals became a chief motif of the collection, making their first appearance on a mink and cashmere coat that defined from the offset an ostentatious emphasis on luxury.
Mountaineering technology and tradition informed the collection, which focused on luxurious outerwear using furs and leathers including astrakhan, sheepskin, shearling, shaved beaver, fox and mink that were formed onto blousons, parkas and overcoats. Is there something disconcerting that Jones, a conservationist, catalogs animal’s pelts as a requisite to modern luxury? Positively English mills were enlisted to re-create Bhutanese blankets, specially woven from cashmere and transformed into ponchos.
Artists Jake and Dinos Chapman created the 'Garden in Hell' pattern that appeared on the collection's silk dressing gowns and evening jackets. The brothers were also commissioned to create a figure of the snow leopard which also appeared on neckties and pocket squares. Jones also enlisted London based milliner Stephen Jones to create the collection’s slouchy knit hats.
The super-luxe collection was inherently mature for Jones and overtly decadent. A palette of navy, moss green and earth brown was sludgy and the oversized weekend bags, carabineer buckle belts and the goggle sunglasses will ensure copious sales for the Louis Vuitton addict.
Marc Jacobs (clapping very excitingly), Kanye West and the Chapmans all sat front row ensuring the Louis Vuitton trunk show. The powerhouse of luxury will continue its journey forwards to world domination.
