Under the all-encompassing glow of a faux-setting sun – a deep yellow circle of light inspired by Olafur Eliasson’s 2003 installation at the Tate Modern ‘The Weather Project’ – Marc Jacobs’ F/W13 collection of pared-back glamour took to the annular runway. Models with mussed, pixie-cropped hair started the show in modish daywear and boxy outerwear clutching bags to their chests, the collection soon graduating to shimmering, liquid gold bias-cut eveningwear paired with luxe fur capelets, jackets and fox stoles.
It was an interesting marriage of simplicity and opulence – lines were clean and figure-hugging, emphasizing the models sinewy physiques, while materials were metallic-hued and luxurious, embellished with sequins. Several eras were referenced – bias-cut slip dresses drawing on thirties Hollywood, metallics and hotpants hinting at the days of disco, broad-collared coats and pajama jackets sixties-inspired, remnants of Jacobs’ heavily mod and dollybird-like last season wares. Overall, the collection inspired a sense of ease, of effortlessness – nothing was too complicated, least of all the reference-points, it was seemingly unstudied and quite beautiful.