If you’re on the lookout for a new dress or three, chances are you’ll find at least one in Martine Sitbon’s latest Rue du Mail collection. And you could do worse than the black and white herringbone belted coat that opened the show. In fact, there was plenty here to want, although you should probably leave the lurex short-shorts behind!
The dresses dominated and came in simple black silk satin shifts, some with contrasting white zigzag embroidery, others with floral dévorés, another t-shirt-style with its single white flower embroidered on brought last season’s Prada daisy styles to mind. They all stopped right at the knee and had the potential of being that dress you always reach for when in a rush – wear with sharp ankle boots, throw on a cropped jacket et voila, you’re ready for the office/dinner/whatever. It’s these clever yet simple options that Rue du Mail excels at. The herringbone also looked great as the skirt of a dress with a knitted top or a pleated skirt teamed with a knitted silk bomber. The velvet pieces never felt heavy and another two-tone dress with floral applique had a playful tone to it.
The show hit its stride in the latter part when the copper lurex pieces started coming. A zipped-up bomber jacket with furry sleeves and collar worn with a matching white skirt looked great, as did the dresses – more structured than the earlier ones, the sparkly lurex criss-crossing its way across the bust. They had an energy to them and a purpose – a winning combination.